Michelin-Starred Dining Experience in Shanghai and Guangzhou

Duration: 50 days
Time: December
Per capita cost: 10,000 yuan
Companions: Spouse
Ways to play: Gourmet food, culture, independent travel, petty bourgeoisie, luxury, weekend trips, Michelin Guide

Posted on January 19, 2023, 23:13

After three years of the epidemic, all industries in Shanghai were in disarray, yet Michelin-starred restaurants thrived. Despite lockdowns, securing a seat was challenging, and every spot was taken. During my several returns to Shanghai, I made it a point to visit over half of these culinary gems, jotting down my experiences to share with fellow food enthusiasts.

While food is essential to life, the catering industry differs from others. Gourmet food lacks a universal standard, leaving many confused. Various regions boast their own claims, with no consensus. Fortunately, three comparable criteria have long been established: 1) Quality of ingredients; 2) Cooking techniques/characteristics; 3) Consistency and equal treatment for all customers.

For nearly a century, Michelin has been anonymously visiting and evaluating gourmet food, providing guides and setting a benchmark for the international catering industry, earning a global reputation. Originating in pre-war France, it spread to Germany, Italy, the United Kingdom, and the Netherlands, and only after the millennium did it expand beyond Western Europe. It reached the United States in 2005, Japan in 2007, and Hong Kong and Macau in 2008. In early 2017, it arrived in mainland China, awarding Shanghai its first stars. Today, it covers 116 starred restaurants across Shanghai, Guangzhou, Beijing, and Chengdu.

Compared to France with over 600, Japan with over 400, and Germany and Italy with over 300, the Chinese mainland, with slightly fewer stars, is on par with Switzerland, the Netherlands, and Belgium/Luxembourg. It also surpasses over 20 countries in Eastern Europe and Southeast Asia within the Michelin circle, especially recent additions like Canada and Russia. Notably, it temporarily outshines Australia and New Zealand, where the Michelin Guide is yet to be introduced.

Of the over one hundred starred restaurants in mainland China, Shanghai accounts for nearly half. However, many time-honored brands familiar since childhood are not listed, such as Xinghualou, Wangbaohe, Meilongzhen, Guanshengyuan, Gongdelin, Lubolang, Xinya, Yangzhou Restaurant, Hongfangzi, Kaisiling, Deda Western Restaurant, and various establishments within Shanghai Mansion, Jinjiang Hotel, Peace Hotel, and International Hotel. The exception is Laozhengxing on Sima Road. Consistency, closely related to the unpredictability of Chinese thinking, is the main issue, making it challenging to earn a star in China, even for a one-star Michelin restaurant, described as ‘A very good restaurant in its category.’

Many local restaurants resemble the century-old Laozhengxing, with dishes like oil-blasted shrimp and stir-fried eel paste, sharing similar ingredients and cooking methods. Thus, one-star winners must be meticulous and follow strict culinary rules. Some are located in Bund buildings, like Yidao and Yu Waitan; others in high-end hotels, such as Yilongge and Yongfu; and some renovate old villas lavishly, like the ‘Fu’ brand on Yuyuan Road. Dining in these places feels like a journey back in time to old Shanghai.

Among Shanghai’s one-star restaurants, there are many remarkable dishes. Renheguan’s crab roe rice and wild rice stem with eel shreds are highly recommended. Lei Garden’s must-try ice-roasted three-layer pork and spare ribs with Chencun rice noodles are not to be missed. Shanghai Charm’s signature truffle beef cheek meat is also a standout.

Nanlu Zhejiang’s Golden Pork Knuckles are a feast for the eyes and palate, crafted in a pyramid shape for visual appeal and scored for ease of eating. Equally enchanting is Huangpu No.3’s Abalone Puff with Black Truffle and Crispy Rice Balls, as well as their Cherry Goose Liver. Although Lu Garden also offers the latter, Huangpu’s unique presentation, with Rose Pearls enveloped in a cloud of mist, is worth a thumbs up. Despite not being authentic fatty goose liver, they are made from ordinary duck liver paste and are a delight to taste.
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Two-star restaurants carry the prestigious tag of “excellent cooking, worth a detour.” However, the additional enjoyment they offer over one-star establishments is minimal, despite their higher prices. Most of these restaurants, such as Yu Bao Xuan on the north end of the Bund, allow for à la carte ordering, which is more comfortable than the fixed set menus often found abroad. Notably, the Custard Buns at Xi Yue No.8 on Ru Nan Road are both affordable and high-quality, making them a must-visit multiple times.

As a Michelin priority, the meticulous craftsmanship of Shanghai-style chefs often outshines that of the original places of various cuisines. For instance, the smoked cod, truffle, and wagyu gift box at Ji Pin Xuan, though not the best value for money, showcases this craftsmanship. Yet, the ultimate expression of this meticulousness is found in the three-star category: “extraordinary cuisine, worth a special trip.” Unfortunately, our three-star restaurants, managed by Westerners, excel in exquisiteness but lack creativity.

Looking across the mainland, only the capital boasts two self-operated three-star restaurants, though they do not specialize in Beijing cuisine. For those seeking to eat their fill, these ‘craft’ focused restaurants are not ideal, as cooking has become an artistic creation, with diners’ stomachs as the final destination of the work. Take Tai An Gate in Changning, managed by a German chef, where reservations are required months in advance and a leisurely few hours are spent around the open kitchen, sampling more than ten fixed dishes, each only enough for a mouthful or two.

Paul Pairet, one of the two three-star winners, operates the mysterious Ultraviolet, which costs nearly a thousand dollars per person, but also a more affordable French restaurant on the 6th floor of Bund 18, south of the Peace Hotel South Building, with an average price of less than a hundred dollars. He also runs Polux Bistro on the south side of Huaihai Road, with an average price of only 2-300 yuan, which has earned the Michelin ‘Bib Gourmand’ award for being delicious and affordable without stars. On the 3rd and 1st floors of the same Bund 18, Joël Robuchon’s two-star French restaurant, pastry shop, and afternoon tea hall offer a resplendent setting by the Huangpu River, reminiscent of the Seine.

In contrast, Guangzhou’s younger Michelin restaurants are somewhat disappointing. Despite the high regard for Cantonese cuisine, there are no three-star restaurants, and the numbers are far behind. Yu Tang Chun Nuan at the Bai Tianbai Hotel on Shamian Island has been known as the best in the city for years but only has one star, always crowded and often requiring a wait for a table. Hui Shi Jia, across the river, is more civilian but lacks exquisiteness.

Within the Mayor Building of Tianhe City, Peninsula Ming Xuan offers superior afternoon tea compared to its dinner service. Jiang’s, once the sole two-star restaurant dedicated to innovative cuisine, brings surprises but lacks cost-effectiveness. The newly promoted two-star Yu Bao Xuan near Zhujiang New Town adheres to conventional standards, offering little to distinguish itself.

The Michelin guide’s hallmark is its secret visits several times a year, with establishments that fail to satisfy potentially losing their stars, as seen with a certain Shanghai Pavilion in previous years and a ‘certain place’ this year. This process maintains quality and credibility, allowing patrons to indulge in fine dining without worries, making a tire company an unexpected super referee in the culinary world.

Appendix: Partial list of Shanghai Michelin-starred restaurants, addresses, phone numbers, and reference average prices (most require an additional 10% service charge):
1. Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, creative cuisine, 6th Floor, 18 Zhongshan East Road, ≈y5500/person
2. Tai An Gate, creative cuisine, No. 161, Lane 465, Zhenning Road, ≈y2500/person, 8+2~4 sets
3. L’atelier de Joël Robuchon, French cuisine, afternoon tea, 18 Zhongshan East Road, ≈y1800/person
4. Xin Rong Ji, Taizhou cuisine, No. [Address and phone number omitted for brevity]

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This reformatting aims to improve the flow and readability of the text, making it more accessible for readers.170, Nanyang Road, =y1500/person
2* Bao Li Xuan, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd Floor, General Chamber of Commerce Building, No. 108, North Shanxi Road, =y1100/person
2* Ji Pin Xuan, Cantonese cuisine, No. 55, Urumqi South Road, =y1000/person
2* Yu Bao Xuan, Cantonese cuisine, No. 99, Beijing East Road, =y450/person
2* Yu Bao Xuan, Cantonese cuisine, 5th Floor, Tianhui Plaza, No. 222, Xingmin Road, =y430/person
1* Xi Yue No. 8, Cantonese cuisine, No. 63, Runan Street, =y250/person
1* Yong Fu, Ningbo cuisine, No. 59, Maoming South Road, Jin Jiang Hotel, =y900/person
1* Sheng Yongxing, Beijing cuisine, 5th Floor, No. 20, Guangdong Road, =y830/person
1* Ming Ge, Cantonese cuisine, No. 333, Shenhong Road, =y800/person
1* Yu Waitan, Min cuisine, No. 600, Zhongshan East 2nd Road, =y700/person
1* Yong Yi Ting, Shanghai cuisine, No. 111, South Pudong Road, =y690/person
1* Fu Yi Zero Eight Eight, Shanghai cuisine, No. 375, Zhenning Road, =y660/person
1* Jia Quan Qi Fu, Cantonese cuisine, No. 1515, Nanjing West Road, =y630/person
1* Jiang, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd Floor, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, No. 389, Tianhe Road, =y630/person
1* Lu Cai, Lu cuisine, Room 207, 2nd Floor, Huanyu Hui, No. 838, Huangpi South Road, =y600/person
1* Xin Rong Ji, Taizhou cuisine, No. 688, Nanjing West Road, =y580/person
1* Cheng Long Xing Crab Royal, Shanghai cuisine, No. 216, Jiujiang Road, =y550/person
1* Yi Dao, Huaiyang cuisine, No. 31-91, Beijing East Road, =y540/person
1* Yi Long Ge, Cantonese cuisine, 2nd Floor, Peninsula Hotel, No. 32, Zhongshan East Road, =y450/person
1* Da Dong, fashionable cuisine, 6th Floor, Huaihai Middle Road 999, Huamao Plaza, =y440/person
1* Fu Yi Zero Three Nine, Shanghai cuisine, No. 1039, Yuyuan Road, =y400/person
1* No. 3 Huangpu Club, Cantonese cuisine, 5th Floor, No. 3, Zhongshan East Road, =y400/person
1* Li Yuan, Cantonese cuisine, 4th Floor, Huamao Plaza, Huaihai Middle Road 999, =y380/person
1* Li Yuan, Cantonese cuisine, 3rd Floor, IFC Mall, No. 8, Century Avenue, =y370/person
1* Lu Yuan, Huaiyang cuisine, 9th Floor, Lujiazui Center, No. 899, South Pudong Road, =y370/person
1* Mi Shanghai, Shanghai cuisine, 6th Floor, No. 1108, Meihua Road, =y350/person
1* Nan Lu Zhe Li, Hangzhou cuisine, No. 216, Sichuan Middle Road, =y280/person (closed in 2023)
1* Ren He Guan, Shanghai cuisine, No. 407, Zhaojiabang Road, =y200/person
1* Hui Shi Jia, Cantonese cuisine, No. 172, Binjiang West Road, Haizhu District, =y200/person
1* Peninsula Ming Xuan, Cantonese cuisine, Mayor Building, No. 189, Tianhe North Road, =y150/person
1* Lao Zhengxing, Shanghai cuisine, No. 556, Fuzhou Road

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