Duration: 2 days, Time: December, Cost per person: 640 yuan. Who: Family. Approach: Self-guided tour, weekend trip. The author visited these places: Shanghai People’s Square, The Bund, Huangpu River, Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Building, Lujiazui, Chen Yi Square, Shanghai People’s Hero Memorial, Waibaidu Bridge, Pujiang Hotel, Seagull Hotel, Suzhou River 1933 Old Factory. Published on 2019-12-23 10:30.
Always wanted to visit Shanghai to experience the charm of a metropolis and explore the surrounding water towns and ancient villages. Our family of three, with our son Xiao Bao who is in the fourth grade of primary school, also needs to broaden his horizons. This will provide him with firsthand experiences for his future compositions. Considering that the Spring Festival of 2020 came early and not wanting to join the crowds during Christmas and New Year, we carefully chose a weekend to travel.
Early Saturday morning, we took the high-speed train from Hefei to Shanghai. On the morning of December 7th, we boarded the G7434 high-speed train to Shanghai on time. We quickly passed Wuxi and Suzhou, and arrived at Shanghai Hongqiao Station around 9:50 AM.
Originally planned to visit Zhouzhuang water town on the first day, enjoying the local delicacy of Wansan pig’s trotters, and then strolling in the city center of Shanghai on the second day, enjoying afternoon tea. This way, spending a day in the countryside and a day in the city can prevent aesthetic fatigue.
After leaving Hongqiao Station, I contacted our chartered driver, Master Wu, preparing to drive directly to Zhouzhuang. Upon hearing that we were going to Zhouzhuang, Master Wu shook his head, saying that Zhouzhuang is now too commercialized and no longer has the traditional water town flavor. Moreover, the entrance fee is 100 yuan per person, which totals 300 yuan for three people and is not cost-effective. He suggested visiting two other ancient towns, Qingpu Jinze and Kunshan Luzhi, both of which are free of charge and not crowded with tourists. Zhouzhuang’s features of small bridges, flowing water, and residential homes can also be seen in Jinze and Luzhi. Thinking it made sense and could save 300 yuan, I agreed to visit the closer one first. Master Wu said Jinze was closer, so let’s go there.
The car directly got on the highway and drove along the G50 National Highway for about 45 minutes until we arrived at Jinze Ancient Town, located on the side of the Huqingping Highway. Entering the town along Jinxi Road, there were no signs of entrance fees at the town entrance. After crossing the Jinxi Bridge and turning right, we saw the appearance of a water town, with gentle rivers, quiet stone arch bridges, and riverside homes with black brick and tile roofs, scattered orderly, just like what is shown on TV. The paths along the river are all stone slab paths, exceptionally clean, and there are very few people on the road, making one feel that the heart can calm down instantly. Here, even on a Saturday morning, there are sparse tourists and no commercialization at all. It is said that Jinze is a famous bridge town, known as the ‘First Bridge Town in Jiangnan’. The small town has seven ancient bridges built across the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, each bridge is a piece of history. They quietly lie on the clear water surface, telling their own stories.
The small town is simple and natural, clean and quiet. We walked along the ancient town’s river, crossing over small bridges of various styles, which was very comfortable and relaxing, allowing us to unwind completely. As we crossed the second bridge, we noticed a boat tour available by the bridge’s base, charging 60 yuan per boat. The three of us decided to rent a wooden boat, which cost us only 20 yuan per person, feeling quite reasonable. Our little one was overjoyed, rushing to the stern of the boat to watch the boatman navigate with a bamboo pole. It was our first time on such a traditional black awning boat, and the experience felt like stepping into a story by Lu Xun. The boat gently glided along, with the riverside buildings slowly receding, time seemed to stand still, the sun was slightly intoxicating, and a peaceful atmosphere enveloped us. Seeing the satisfied expressions of my child and wife, I felt that it was truly enjoyable to have driven from Hefei in the morning and arrived in this water town in just four hours!
Soon after, we disembarked and walked back along the path, where many elderly people were basking in the sun, withThe entire tree was translucently yellow, shining with a golden glow, like a tree of wealth. I remembered a millennia-old internet-famous ginkgo tree in Xi’an, but this one in Jinze was equally eye-catching and by no means inferior to the one in Xi’an. The ground under this ginkgo was thickly covered with fallen leaves, creating a golden carpet that was incredibly beautiful! It could easily become a popular spot for social media photos, and the rare part was that there were not many tourists yet, otherwise, taking pictures would have required a queue. The temple guard suggested that we take some fallen ginkgo leaves back for our child, which could be used as bookmarks and also had the function of warding off evil spirits for children, which was really nice. It felt quite lucky that this souvenir was truly blessed!
As we strolled, it was already noon, and it seemed there were not many restaurants in town. So, I called Master Wu, asking for his recommendation. He mentioned a local restaurant in a small alley off the main road, which he had visited before. The owner, a woman named Sister Tuesday, also served as the chef, and all the dishes were local water town cuisine. We entered the small restaurant, which did not have a menu; instead, we ordered by looking at the dishes available. The vegetables and fish looked quite fresh. The three of us ordered a few home-cooked dishes, including white-cut chicken, sweet and sour pork ribs, pond fish tofu soup, garlic water spinach, and bamboo shoot grilled meat. The food was quite good, served quickly, and we even had a small private room for a comfortable lunch.
Upon final payment, the total was just 128 yuan, averaging a mere 40 yuan per person. It was genuinely affordable, and I felt like we had gained a lot. Typically, at tourist spots, the food is either unpalatable or exorbitantly priced; finding something both inexpensive and delicious is quite rare.
After a satisfying meal, it was only 2 PM, and feeling it was still early, I inquired with Master Wu about the distance to Luzhi. He mentioned it was approximately 50 kilometers away. It didn’t seem too far, so we set off for the journey. The traffic was smooth, and we arrived before three o’clock. The ancient town of Luzhi appeared to be quite sizable. At the entrance, there was a sculpture of a mythical beast and a stele with the town’s name along with a screen wall. Adjacent to it was a large parking lot, and to the left was a visitor reception center. Passing through the center led us into the scenic area of the ancient town. Inside the visitor center, boat ride tickets were on sale. I checked the price; a boat ride for half an hour cost 150 yuan, with seating for up to eight people. This was a full 90 yuan more expensive than Jinze, but I was grateful we had visited Jinze first, feeling like we had saved money once again. I felt a small sense of fortune.
We entered directly through the scenic area’s main gate. The ancient town was very clean, and as soon as we entered, we saw the mythical beast Luzhi Duan in an open square, which could be considered the main entrance to Luzhi town. There was no need to buy tickets to enter the gate, but to visit the so-called attractions such as the Shen Residence, Bao Sheng Temple, Ye Sheng Tao Memorial Hall, and Jiangnan Culture Park, tickets were required. We just strolled casually, letting our steps take us where they would. Entering the scenic area was like unfolding a historical scroll. In Ye’s writings, the ‘Wansheng Rice Shop’ from ‘The Extra Thirty-Five Measures’ came to mind, with vivid images of crowded open rice boats and tenants in felt hats, along with the peculiar rice shop accountants, making me deeply feel the hardships of farmers in the old days.
Sitting on the riverside corridor for a rest, I watched as boatwomen rowed their boats along the river, leaving a trail of water in their wake. Luzhi ancient town’s streets run parallel to the river, with the upper side of the river and north as Shang Tang Street, and the south and east as Xia Tang Street. Generally, the streets are 2.5 to 5 meters wide. Alleys perpendicular to the river are about 1 to 3 meters wide, with the most distant alleys stretching up to 150 meters. The houses within the lanes have three, five, or six courtyards, and the deepest even have seven. The streets and alleys are paved with stone slabs or cobblestones, with clear water flow and dry roads after rain. Shops and restaurants line both sides of the streets, with local snacks and eateries everywhere, reminiscent of the town’s past prosperity.
Luzhi is noticeablyChinese aesthetics is so plain and ordinary, and it is slowly felt. This is not easy to describe. Anyway, standing by the river, one can feel that the aura is different. When Xiaobao got tired, he bought a bottle of oolong tea and took a short break on the stone bench along the river. My wife casually bought a bag of Luzhi radish strips at the sauce garden nearby for 6 yuan. It is said to be a specialty of Luzhi and can be stir-fried with green soybeans when we go back. Around 5:30, we basically finished visiting. The sky gradually darkened and we were ready to return to the hotel. In the car, we chatted with Master Wu about Luzhi and asked him for dinner recommendations. He said that Luzhi belongs to Kunshan. The Aozao noodles here are the most famous and cannot be found in other places. That’s fine. Since we are here, let’s try it. Master Wu drove to a noodle restaurant in the town. The storefront is relatively clean. We ordered three bowls of Aozao duck noodles and added a large piece of braised pork for each person, totaling 90 yuan. A hot meal with white noodles in red soup is quite affordable. After eating, we went back to the hotel directly. We booked the Mercure Hotel on Fuquan Road. It is very close to the subway entrance, and the environment is also good. There are all kinds of commercial facilities nearby. It is considered a good value for money. Mainly on the first day, the basic expenses are: chartered car fee, boat fee in Jinze, four dishes and one soup at noon and noodles in the evening. There is not much spent on scenic spot tickets, but we also visited two water towns and took a cruise ship. It is considered a good value for money. Now thinking about it, not going to Zhouzhuang may be right. Water towns are almost the same, but the ticket price of Zhouzhuang is indeed a bit high. There is another advantage of chartering a car by yourself. If you want to take pictures when passing by a bridge, you can go there and stop and take pictures as you like. This is relatively casual. Driver Master Wu is an experienced driver who is familiar with the route and is also very easy-going. The places he recommends are really quite good. This is quite lucky.
On the second day, after having breakfast in the hotel, we are ready to stroll around the urban area. We checked out at 8:30 in the morning, left our luggage in storage and went out. We took the subway line 2 opposite the hotel and soon arrived at People’s Square Station. After coming out, at the entrance of the No. 1 Department Store in the city, there is a small train that can take us to the Bund. It costs 6 yuan per person. Children like it. The small train shuttles through the pedestrian street. There are stores on both sides. It feels like window shopping. The terminal is at the intersection of Henan Road and Nanjing East Road. Walking east for another 10 minutes is the Bund. The Bund is a landmark scenic spot in Shanghai. It appears in countless movies and TV dramas. It is one of the scenic spots with the most symbolic meaning of Shanghai. To the east is the Huangpu River and the new embankment of the Bund. To the west of the Bund stand Chinese and Western buildings of various styles. For nearly a hundred years, the Bund has been presented to the world as a symbol of Shanghai. It is the epitome of modern Shanghai history.
The Bund is truly beautiful, fulfilling all the fantasies one might have about Shanghai, just as depicted in television shows, without any exaggeration. Visitors to Shanghai invariably make their way to the Bund, where they can leisurely stroll along the embankment, admiring the iconic buildings of Shanghai such as the Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Tower, and Shanghai Tower across the river. Most importantly, one must appreciate the diverse architectural styles of the international building complex along the Bund. This is an excellent spot for a photo opportunity, with the Oriental Pearl Tower, Shanghai Tower, river views, breeze, and tourists all harmoniously combined. Walking along the riverbank, you will encounter young and elderly couples (as well as tourists from all over the world), some smiling, others supporting each other for a photo in front of the railing, with the symbol of the Magic City, the bustling and towering Lujiazui, as the backdrop. Everyone who comes here, regardless of who they are, will pause to take in the scene. The gentle river breeze, leaning on the railing, this place is the best window to understand Shanghai. Behind is the century-old foreign concession area of the Bund, and in front is a microcosm of Shanghai’s rapid development over the past three decades. Time and space seem to converge here, and as one gazes atThe child loved this place and stayed by the railing of the river embankment for a while. Just then, a tour group came by, and a guide introduced it this way: ‘Standing on the Bund’s embankment, facing Pudong, with Puxi behind you. Behind is Shanghai’s past, the十里洋场, the British and American concessions; in front is Shanghai’s future, Pudong Lujiazui, the international financial center. The past, present, and future converge here, and you are in the midst of historical progress!’ I wrote down every word in my phone’s notepad. If Xiao Bao could incorporate this passage into his composition, it would truly be a golden sentence! Isn’t art said to come from life? It’s really important to get out and about, to broaden one’s horizons, to see and hear more, to enrich one’s perspective!
Passing through Chen Yi Square, the Shanghai People’s Hero Memorial Tower, and the Waibaidu Bridge, across the street to the right, there is a five-story building made of stone, concrete, brick, and wood, which is the Pujiang Hotel, formerly known as the ‘Astor House.’ This hotel is not ordinary; it was founded by the British Richard in 1846 and later transferred to British businessman Smith in 1860. After the transfer, the hotel’s facilities were greatly improved, and many of the first presentations of Western technology in China took place here, such as telephones, electric lights, movies, and running water. Many celebrities have visited this place, including former U.S. President Grant, philosopher Bertrand Russell, scientist Albert Einstein, and comedic genius Charlie Chaplin. In 1922, Einstein stayed in room 304 and received a telegram from overseas informing him of his Nobel Prize win. In 1931, Chaplin stayed at the hotel during his travels. Walking through the lavishly decorated lobby, one can visit the upper floors where the interior maintains the style of the 1980s, with dark wooden floors and corners, giving a feel of old Shanghai. It reminds me of the popular Hong Kong TV series ‘Shanghai Bund’ from years ago, where Xu Wenqiang and Ding Li once showed their prowess. Although my child may not understand everything at this hotel, Shanghai is a place full of historical legends, and he will understand when he grows up. It’s good for him to experience it now and have memories to reminisce about in the future.
Before long, it was lunchtime, and we found the Seagull Restaurant across the street with river views. We had lunch there, ordering several Shanghai specialties: smoked fish, Eight Treasure Chili Sauce, steamed sea bass, sizzling eel, and Yangzhou dried tofu, along with some beverages, totaling nearly 360 yuan. After lunch, we walked west along the green space by Suzhou River, which was perfect for digestion. Along the river were old factories that have been transformed into hotels and design centers, all modernized. Not far along, we found the metro station for line 10, and after two stops, we arrived at Hailun Road Station. Following Harbin Road and using our phone navigation, we arrived at an interesting place: the 1933 Old Mill.
The 1933 Old Mill in Shanghai was originally built as a slaughterhouse by the Shanghai Municipal Council and was the largest slaughterhouse in the Far East during the 1930s and 1940s. Constructed in 1933 and designed by the renowned British architect Balfour, the building has a Roman basilica style with an overall structure that echoes the traditional Chinese concept of ’round sky, square earth.’ It has been a classic filming location for many movies and TV shows and is now a well-known hub for fashion performances, theater performances, new product launches, exhibitions, trading, design, services, consumption, and leisure in Shanghai. The Old Mill has a complex layout of hallways and small passages in every corner, making it like a giant maze. My child was delighted running around inside. After wandering for a while, we stopped at a café on the third floor for an Australian white coffee. The owner, who is from Australia, has a good understanding of hand-brewed coffee, using freshly ground coffee beans. The young lady at the front desk is very enthusiastic. Seeing Xiaobao sweating profusely, she immediately poured him a glass of plain boiled water. It feels very humane. Outside the coffee room, there is an open space where one can sit and daze for a while. This place can calm one’s mood. There are not too many tourists, which is very good.
In a flash, it was 4:30. Coming out of the 1933 Old Millfun, seeing a small bridge on the right hand side. Beside the bridge, there is aAt 20:13, we boarded the G7596 high-speed train on time and set off back to Hefei. This two-day weekend tour had a relatively reasonable schedule. It combined the charm of water towns with classic check-in places in the metropolis. The trip was neither too tiring nor troublesome, making it a relaxed and pleasant experience. It is an ideal getaway for a family of three or a young couple. The time arrangement was perfect, making full use of both Saturday and Sunday.
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