**Trip to Fengjing: A Journey Through Time and Water**
**Duration: 1 Day**
**Time: July**
**With: Friends**
**Mode of Travel: Free and Easy**
**Posted on: 2024-09-05 09:50**
As the plum rain season fades and the hot summer days arrive, I find myself reflecting on the saying, “Only after a clear sky do we realize the depth of summer.” Over the past decade, I’ve visited Fengjing several times, but each visit was fleeting and left only a superficial impression. Now, under the cloudless sky and with a gentle breeze, I embarked on a leisurely trip to Fengjing with friends, aiming to truly appreciate its delicate and quaint charm, epitomized by the saying “three steps two bridges, ten canals in sight.”
Fengjing, part of Jinshan district, borders Jiashan and Pinghu in Zhejiang province, thus controlling the southwestern gateway to Shanghai. It has been a bustling hub since ancient times, with a dense population and flourishing commerce, rivaling the prosperity of Shengze in Suzhou and Nanxun and Wangjiangjing in Zhejiang, earning it the reputation of one of the four famous towns in the Jiangnan region.
Spanning over 3,100 acres, Fengjing fully embodies the characteristics of a typical Jiangnan water town. It is crisscrossed by a network of waterways and canals, with numerous bridges and a harmonious layout of roads. The Zhihe Bridge, in particular, stands out for its long history and elegance, dating back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), and still exudes an ancient charm after seven centuries.
The clear streams meander through the ancient town, with “trees casting shade and birdsong echoing,” the sparkling water reflecting the closely packed houses. Most of the houses are styled in Ming and Qing dynasties’ architecture, two-story buildings made of brick and wood, with dark tiles and whitewashed walls. Side rooms and courtyards are nestled between the front and back buildings, with halls and gates leading into spacious residences.
Following the Xinjing Road to the northeast, one soon arrives at the central street of the ancient town, where after a few hundred steps, one reaches the heart of Fengjing – the Three Bridges Square. The Zhuxing Bridge, Qingfeng Bridge, and Beifeng Bridge span the confluence of two rivers, connecting the south, central, and north streets, as well as Heping Street, Shengchan Street, and Fengxi Corridor. They serve not only as daily passages but also stand in a “pinwheel” formation, with buildings facing each other and enhancing each other’s beauty.
The square, though small, is the hub of Fengjing, with Shengchan Street and Fengxi Corridor just across the river, winding along the water’s edge, forming a picturesque scene of “flowing water and small bridges on the river road,” “fragrant grass and misty waterways.” The adjacent Central Street is lined with closely packed houses and numerous bars and restaurants, attracting a crowd of tourists who come to take photos, check-in, and dine.
Walking onto the Qingfeng Bridge at the northwest of the square, one can see the main north street, Shengchan Street and Fengxi Corridor to the right, and the Zhuxing Bridge behind. Occasionally, boats carrying tourists pass under the bridge, allowing them to fully appreciate the ancient town’s serene and enduring charm amidst “water and sky sharing the same color, a gentle sound in between.”
The North Street is a commercial world, rich in ancient atmosphere and appearance, well-preserved. The streets are paved with slabs, even and flat, though not very wide, with two-story buildings lining both sides. Strolling along, one’s spirit is delighted; looking up, the sky appears as a thin line.
Fengjing began as a market town in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), and the town was established in the early Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), spanning the territories of Wu and Yue. North Street was likely a prosperous area at that time. It was filled with shops and workshops, with a particular emphasis on handicrafts, hence drawing a dense population and busy traffic. By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Fengjing had become a center for cotton spinning and trade, producing “tens of thousands of bolts of cloth daily,” and facilitating trade, making it a bustling and stunningly prosperous place.It has been a place of bustling traffic and dense population since ancient times. Located at the border of Wu and Yue, by the end of the Yuan and the beginning of the Ming dynasty, Fengjing had already become prosperous with flourishing business and commerce, rivaling the grandeur of Shengze in Suzhou and Nanxun and Wangjiangjing in Zhejiang, earning the reputation of being one of the four famous towns in the Jiangnan region.
Fengjing spans over 3,100 acres, fully embodying the appearance of a Jiangnan water town. Surrounded by a network of waterways, crisscrossed by rivers and alleys, and dense with bridges, the Zhihe Bridge is particularly eye-catching. Its long history and elegant antiquity can be traced back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). After seven hundred years of historical dust, it still retains its ancient charm, with a captivating presence.
The clear stream meanders through the ancient town, “with shaded trees and birds singing above and below”, reflecting the shimmering water and the closely packed houses. Most of the houses are styled from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Two-story buildings constructed with bricks and wood, wrapped in black tiles and white walls, with wing rooms and courtyards nestled between the front and back buildings. Passing through halls, ceremonial gates, and halls, all within the deep courtyards and large residences. The Matang Building is connected to the front and back buildings, serving as a walkway.
Following the Xinjing Road and turning northeast into the main street of the ancient town, after a hundred or so steps, one arrives at the center of Fengjing – the Three Bridges Square. The Zhuhang Bridge, Qingfeng Bridge, and Beifeng Bridge span the confluence of two rivers, connecting the southern, central, and northern main streets as well as Heping Street, Shengchan Street, and Fengxi Corridor within the ancient town. They serve not only as daily passageways but also stand in a ‘product’ shape, with buildings facing each other, forming a picturesque scene that complements and enhances each other!
The square is small but significant, as it is where the three bridges of Fengjing converge. Shengchan Street and Fengxi Corridor are just across the river, winding along the riverbank, naturally forming a “small bridge over flowing water” and “fragrant grass shrouded in mist by the water’s bend”. The central main street is adjacent to it, with houses closely packed and taverns standing in rows, thus attracting numerous tourists who come to check in, take photos, and dine.
Walking up the Qingfeng Bridge at the northwest of the square, all that meets the eye includes the northern main street directly ahead, the production street and Fengxi Corridor on the right, and the Zhuhang Bridge to the rear right. Occasionally, other boats emerge from under the bridge, carrying tourists to cruise on the river, enjoying the ancient town’s long and tranquil charm in “a color shared by water and sky, and a sound echoing in between”.
North Street, a commercial hub, brims with ancient charm and retains its historical appearance, truly well-preserved. The streets are paved with stone slabs, which are neat and flat, though not very spacious. The buildings are two-storied and stand on both sides of the street, providing a delightful stroll; when you raise your eyes, the sky appears as a single line.
Fengjing was established as a market town during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), and the town was established at the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), spanning the territories of Wu and Yue. North Street might have been a thriving place during that time. It was known for its shops and workshops, with a particular emphasis on handicrafts, attracting a bustling crowd and making it a busy place until the Ming and Qing Dynasties when Fengjing became a cotton textile manufacturing and trading center. It was said that “the cloth produced here was counted in tens of thousands daily,” and “trade was balanced, with everyone finding what they needed.” Thus, North Street was once the center of bustling competition in the midst of trade, astonishing and admired from afar. However, now it is in decline, with “shops sparse and customers few,” and North Street gradually shows signs of decay, which is regrettable!
The reasons for this are complex and not easily summed up, akin to “beauty not yet old, but grace already gone.” We unintentionally visited Shiwang Temple, stopped at Hui’an Bridge and returned, turning southeast at the base of Chunfeng Bridge, crossing Beifeng Bridge and entering Heping Street, with the aim of visiting the site of the Qing Dynasty Post Office and the Three Hundred Garden of the lay Buddhist Chen Lingju (?-1076). On Heping Street stands a building with a stone-framed door and a black**Upon Entering Fengjing: A Tale of Disappointment and Beauty**
Upon entering Fengjing, one is met with the sight of ‘weeds growing in the courtyard, and the ground lost in the fields.’ This is inevitably disappointing, as the old site has become a residence, each operating independently, almost rustic. In the first month of the third year of the Tongzhi era (1864), Fengjing restored its post station, with private letter agencies first and the imperial post office later (the 22nd year of Guangxu – 1896). This might have been when the Qing Dynasty Post Office was established in Fengjing, directly taking over from the private letter agencies, old bottles filled with new wine, naturally fitting. However, it did not dare to compare with the Qing Dynasty Post Office in Jiaoli, which had a large bronze dragon mailbox placed outside its door and is still in operation to this day. This is merely a matter of changing names and titles.
**Disappointment at the Three Hundred Garden**
Disappointment within the town is perhaps greatest at the Three Hundred Garden, which has been transformed into a guesthouse for a long time, filling the heart with disappointment and deep sorrow.
**Taiping Bridge: A Symbol of Beauty and History**
Walking a few hundred steps southeast, one’s attention is drawn to Taiping Bridge, a single-arch bridge and the tallest and widest in the town. Taiping Bridge was initially built in the late Ming Dynasty, spanning north and south, and because its north side was once the City God Temple, it is also known as the City God Temple Bridge. Its stone arch is semi-circular, and its reflection in the water forms a complete circle, like a huge diamond ring set on the river, ‘how beautiful and splendid!’ It also carries a beautiful meaning, attracting newlyweds like a spring to a ravine, a delightful sight to behold.
**The Eastern District Fire Brigade: A Glimpse into the Past**
After descending the Taiping Bridge, the former site of the Eastern District Fire Brigade is in full view. It is located at the eastern end of Shengchan Street, just at the south end of the Taiping Bridge. Originally, it was a two-room, three-story private residence. After a little renovation and refurbishment, it has a Western-style facade wall, and its lintel, doorframe, and door are painted fiery red, which is in line with the attributes of the industry. Inside the door are some fire-fighting equipment from those years: the hand-pressed fire engine called ‘Yanglong’ (at the beginning of the 20th century); the mechanical ‘pump’ (1937), the wheeled fire truck (1950), as well as water inlet pipes, water outlet hoses, long hooks, axes, torches, copper helmets, ladders, etc. Fire protection in Fengjing was initially formed in the 1920s and was initially called the ‘Dragon King Hall’ (also known as the fire brigade). It is named after the sea dragon king’s ability to control fire. At that time, it was purely civilian. Merchants and wealthy gentry in the town donated funds and purchased equipment, and the practitioners were from various shops and workshops in the town, providing voluntary services to the ancient town.
**Shengchan Street: A Bustling Riverfront**
Nearby is Shengchan Street. The street runs along the river, with a corridor covering its top, providing shade and shelter from the rain. The doors of the buildings on the street open towards the stream. Almost all of them are restaurants, stalls, and homestays, forming a long and slender street. It is bustling with noise and laughter, and seamlessly connects with the Fengxi Corridor. Naturally, ‘The Jinggen is equally beautiful, and the Di’e is even more glorious.’ And its reputation is also resounding, which is indeed comparable to the latter. The street is not very wide. Now, it is filled with tables and chairs for business solicitation and supplementation. Therefore, only half of the passage remains, but it can still allow two people to pass each other. Businessmen do this for profit; the town government allows it, aiming at tax innovation. There is a tacit understanding between officials and businessmen, benefiting each other. However, tourists are troubled and can only sigh helplessly.
**Fengxi Corridor: A Water Town’s Grace**
Moving forward again, passing through the corridor bend, one seamlessly steps into the Fengxi Corridor next to the Zhuhang Bridge. The Fengxi Corridor stretches more than half a mile from north to south, located between the Zhuhang Bridge and the Zhihe Bridge. It is also connected to Shengchan Street. It is in the same line as the corridor – the unique adornment of the water town and the graceful appearance by the water. ‘Beautiful without blemish, fragrant with deep meaning.’ On the inside of the corridor are rows of shops and houses in close succession. Truly, ‘Fish and salt fill the market, and cloth and silk are like clouds.’ On the outside edge of the corridor, the clear water of the city river has slight ripples and shimmering waves. Truly, ‘Orioles singing and swallows dancing, small bridges and flowing water with flying red.’ To be fair, at the beginning of the Fengxi Corridor, the first half of the river section is slightly narrow and deep enough; the waterside scenery is slightly less spacious and lacks openness. Therefore, it is not as good as Shengchan Street, where there is always ‘White clouds outside the door are always in sight’, ‘Wide smoke and light water clouds.After walking along the Fengxi Corridor to the end, its boundary is the Zhihe Bridge. It lies horizontally from east to west and is a single-arch stone arch bridge. There are sixteen steps attached to each end of the Zhihe Bridge. It is nearly eighty feet long and about thirteen feet high. It is nearly seven hundred years old. It is indeed a relic from the Zhihe year (1328) of the Yuan Dynasty. There is nothing older than it in the ancient town of Fengjing.
Once renowned for a small temple placed atop a bridge, and connected to a sanctuary (Yuxu Temple) to the west, it was celebrated as ‘temple linked to bridge, temple within the bridge’. However, the original scenery no longer exists, as centuries of weathering have erased the original structures.
Around three quarters past noon, feeling slightly hungry and thirsty, I decided to find a place to eat. After a satisfying meal, and as the day had passed more than half, I returned to my residence. 2024.09.05
