Fangfeng Mountain, situated on the north bank of Xiazhu Lake, is a modest peak with an elevation of only 125 meters. It extends from Guanyin Ridge in the east, connects to Maotianfan in the west, reaches Zifu Temple in the north, and its southern foot touches Erdu Town. This mountain, also known by various names such as Fengshan, Fengzhu Mountain, was officially renamed Fangfeng Mountain in the sixth year of the Tianbao era of the Tang Dynasty (747 AD).
To explore the mountain, one would bypass Fangfeng Temple and climb hundreds of stone steps to reach a flat area. This spot once housed a Taoist temple, now only remnants of walls remain. The area was once adorned with structures like the ‘Guanyin Pavilion’ and ‘Listening to the Rain Pavilion,’ collectively known as ‘Guanyin Ridge.’ The ‘Listening to the Rain Pavilion,’ nestled against the mountain rock and surrounded by green bamboo, exudes a tranquil and unadorned charm.
On Guanyin Ridge, there was once a grove of ancient plums, including many rare varieties, which formed the significant scenic spot known as the Ancient Plum Scenery on Fangfeng Mountain. The mountain was once celebrated for its ‘Ten Scenes of Fengshan,’ which included the Fangfeng Ancient Stele, Bamboo Forest Listening to Rain, Ancient Plum Scenery, Fengshan Stone Chamber, Hundred Zhang Deep Pond, Pan Lao Xian Trace, Chaoyang Overlooking, Spring Zhu Waves, Luoxia Flying Rainbow, and Strange Pine Waiting for Crane. Regrettably, time has taken its toll, and some of these scenic spots no longer exist.
Ascending further up the stone steps, one encounters the Bat Zen Temple. From here, the view opens up to the glittering Xiazhu Lake, with rivers and farmlands interspersed in a picturesque blend. The area boasts an equal division of water and land, embodying the quintessential charm of a Jiangnan water town, offering a refreshing experience to all who visit.Watching the Sunrise and the Beauty of Chaoyang Overlooking
If you watch the sunrise in the morning, bathing in the morning mist of thousands of rays of light, you are indeed a blessed person. The ‘Chaoyang Overlooking’ is a sight that lives up to its reputation.
The Enigmatic Fengshan Stone Chamber
To the north of Bat Zen Temple lies a magical spot known as the ‘Fengshan Stone Chamber’, commonly referred to as the ‘Bat Cave’. It carries the more elegant name of ‘Fenggong Cave’, and ‘The Classic of Mountains and Seas’ dubs it ‘The Hall of the Great Man’. This cave is a cool retreat in the summer, with water seeping from its walls all year round, allowing visitors to enter without breaking a sweat. As recorded in Dao Guang’s ‘Wukang County Annals’, the cave is capacious enough to ‘accommodate a hundred seats’, holding banquets for a hundred tables, which is quite astonishing. It is believed to be the residence of the King of Fangfeng Mountain.
The cave mouth is tall and spacious, with spring water dripping from the cave walls. The water is cool and sweet, and it is said that regular consumption can lead to a long life. On the eastern cliff of the stone cave, one can find clear cliff inscriptions such as ‘Wei Lan Lai’, ‘Public Interest Overview’, and ‘Cave Heaven and Blessing Land’, which exude a strong historical and cultural atmosphere.
Fenggong Cave: A Natural Microclimate
Fenggong Cave is warm in winter and cool in summer, thanks to its natural microclimate. It is free from mosquitoes and flies, making it an ideal summer resort. Its mysterious and unpredictable nature has drawn many literati to visit over the years.
The Dragon Pond: A Tranquil Spot
Walking a hundred steps east from the stone chamber, you will come across the ‘Dragon Pond’ scenic spot. With steep cliffs and a quiet, dust-free environment, it is also known as ‘Benevolence Pond’. Surrounded by three sides of stone walls that stand alone in the sun, the pond’s water is deep and clear, never drying up. It once served as the release pond for Chaoyang Zen Temple.Climbing the stone ladder, you will ascend to the ‘Heavenly Chamber’ of Fengfeng Mountain. From this vantage point, the ancient landscape of Fangfeng unfolds before you—a tapestry of lake waters and clouds, green bamboo and reed marshes, blue tiles, and white walls. The pastoral scenery is both beautiful and overwhelming, a feast for the eyes.
Historically, this sealed mountain was home to the ‘Ten Thousand Volumes Building’ from the Ming Dynasty, also known as ‘Ten Thousand Bamboo Mountain House’. This remarkable structure consisted of five buildings, each holding ten thousand volumes of books. The books were inscribed with the amusing warning, ‘Borrowing Books is Disrespectful’, a playful admonition that brings a smile to the reader’s face.
Fengfeng Mountain is renowned for its steep peaks and jagged rocks. In the past, seven towering ancient pines with gnarled branches and twisted trunks stood sentinel, attracting wild cranes to roost, inspiring the poetic name ‘Seven Ancient Pines Await the Return of Cranes’. Today, only one solitary pine remains, a silent witness to the passage of time.
Descending the hillside, you will encounter the old Dongyue Palace at Shengtang Ridge, a Taoist temple dedicated to the worship of truth. Nearby to the west is ‘Sishui Hermitage’, with a stone wall that juts out behind it, beneath which lies a clear spring. While these landmarks have largely vanished, one can still experience the ‘Hundred-Zhang Deep Pool’, one of the ten scenic spots of Fengfeng Mountain.
This pool, approximately one acre in size, is unfathomably deep and surrounded by sheer cliffs over ten zhangs high. Peering down from the cliff’s edge offers a thrilling and exhilarating view, a testament to the natural beauty and grandeur of Fengfeng Mountain.When the sunlight directly hits the surface of the pool, without the slightest breeze, the reflection is so clear that one can count the ripples.
The entire area is open to visitors year-round, with full-day access.
