**Duration: 6 Days, October | Average Cost: 3500 Yuan Per Person**
**Companions:** With parents
**Activities:** Gourmet food, photography, self-driving, free and easy travel
**Published on:** 2024-01-20 18:35
Growing up in Beijing, I’ve always been more drawn to the tranquility of nature rather than the hustle of city life. My holidays are typically spent amidst mountains, rivers, and the soothing sounds of streams and seas. However, a sudden urge to revisit Shanghai, a city I briefly touched upon nearly two decades ago as a transit point to Suzhou, has taken hold. This year, a fortunate opportunity presented itself—a long vacation in the last quarter that couldn’t be missed. I decided to take my parents on a month-long trip to Shanghai, the ‘Magic Capital,’ which stands proudly at the mouth of the Yangtze River in the Yangtze River Delta. Known for its exotic ancient buildings, unique cultural atmosphere, and as the headquarters of many financial institutions, Shanghai is often hailed as the ‘Pearl of the Orient.’
In recent years, Chongming Island, Shanghai’s backyard garden, has become a new hotspot. Being the third largest island in China after Taiwan and Hainan, it is now accessible by car via a sea-crossing bridge and an undersea tunnel, sparing us the discomfort of boat travel. I had visited Zhouzhuang years ago, but my memory is hazy. This time, I am eager to see it again. The initial plan for our trip to Shanghai and its surroundings is taking shape, with practical references and shortcuts provided by a group of close friends who had to abandon a summer trip to Shanghai.
Especially in terms of restaurants, I feel as if I could order a full table of dishes at several restaurants I’ve been looking forward to without even looking at the menu. In previous self-driving trips, we would arrive at the train or airport station, where my experienced driver would rent a car for us. This time, with the driver unable to join due to work, it’s my first time renting and driving independently, which is a bit unnerving. I chose a car rental company from Ctrip and selected the cheapest Volkswagen Bora. Before setting off, I researched the car’s features, including the location of the fuel tank switch, the placement of the phone holder for navigation, and the adjustment buttons for the rearview mirror. I brought two different models of phone holders and set off with trepidation, also researching Shanghai’s traffic restrictions, which were confusing with their outer and inner rings and elevated roads. I deliberately chose a car with a Shanghai license plate to avoid restrictions and drive with peace of mind.
Upon arriving at the high-speed train station in Shanghai, I picked up the car and drove directly to the hotel to rest. In the evening, I took a taxi to Wu Kang Road, our only destination for the day. Taking a taxi was a wise decision, as the car couldn’t move more than a hundred meters in advance, and parking was impossible. Police were maintaining order at several directions of the intersection, occasionally persuading tourists who were taking photos in the middle of the road to return to the sidewalk. The Wu Kang Building at the intersection is the landmark of Wu Kang Road and a popular spot for photos and check-ins. We took photos of the Wu Kang Building from several angles at the intersection and walked into the first-floor corridor to appreciate this historical building. The red exterior walls, triangular window lintels, small iron balconies, and the rich French Renaissance style; the ground floor of the building features the common arcade style of Southeast Asia, with a walkable corridor and a few small shops; the overall shape is like a huge cruise ship waiting to set sail.
Wu Kang Road, known as the ‘road that condenses the history of nearly a century of Shanghai,’ has many historical buildings on both sides of the street, showing different exotic styles. It is also a gathering place for the former residences of celebrities, with the former residences of Ba Jin and Soong Ching-ling both located here. The neatly arranged plane trees lining both sides of the road, with their tall and straight trunks and lush canopies, rustling leaves, evoke the romantic legend of ‘a love for plane trees, planted all over Nanjing City’. It seems that not only Nanjing, but also Great Shanghai has been blessed by these loving plane trees!
The restaurant ‘Lao Jishi’, recommended by our group of girlfriends, is located near the Wu Kang Building. After touring Wu Kang Road, we came here for dinner and rest. We planned to arrive at the restaurant around five, thinking we wouldn’t need to make a reservation beforehand. However, upon our arrival, through the small entrance, we could already see several tables filled with diners.The host, after a moment of consideration, led us to dine on the second floor and reminded us to eat quickly. Inside the restaurant, we found a cramped space with dim lighting. The stairs were steep and narrow, and the tables and chairs were packed tightly together, already occupied with people. We were left with no choice but to sit at a small table right opposite the staircase entrance. Our meal included the must-try Jishi Red Cooked Pork, Jishi Salted Chicken, Braised Water Bamboo Shoots, Stir-fried Mushrooms with Yuba, and the staple dish of Scallion Oil Noodles. The red cooked pork was too sweet and greasy, acceptable for a bite or two; the salted chicken was overly salty, living up to its name. These dishes fully reflected the characteristics of Shanghai local cuisine, known for its ‘rich and dark sauce’. As newcomers to Great Shanghai, we felt it was essential to try the authentic local restaurants recommended by the locals, which are on the list of ‘must-eat’ places in Shanghai. The prices were slightly expensive.
Among the many ancient water towns in Jiangnan, Zhouzhuang holds a unique position as one of the six major ancient towns. Located in Kunshan City, under the jurisdiction of Suzhou City, southeast of Suzhou, and more than seventy kilometers away from Shanghai, Zhouzhuang has a history of over nine hundred years and is the first batch of 5A scenic spots in the country. Renting a car for self-driving proved convenient. We drove for an hour and arrived at Zhouzhuang, which has multiple parking lots and several routes into the ancient town. Following the riverbanks allowed for leisurely exploration. There are various ways to tour the ancient town, such as ‘boarding a rowing boat to dream of a water town’, but we chose not to take a boat and instead strolled along the riverbanks and wandered through the streets and alleys.
The entire town of Zhouzhuang is like a picturesque scene of small bridges, flowing water, and households, with a quiet environment and simple architecture. The ancient town’s waterways are crisscrossed, with old buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties built along the rivers. Surrounded by water on all sides, forming a ‘well’ shape, it constitutes the charm of the water town. Where there are rivers and streets, there are bridges. Zhouzhuang is known for its numerous bridges, one of its characteristics being the most famous Yong’an Bridge and Shide Bridge, also known as the Double Bridges, which made the world known under the brush of painter Chen Yifei. The two bridges are positioned horizontally and vertically, with rectangular and circular arches, making them a must-see spot for photography enthusiasts and tourists.
Along the streets and alleys on both banks, there are various restaurants and small shops. Suzhou embroidery fans, Wansan Pig’s Trotters, and silk clothes are quite characteristic of Zhouzhuang, making people stop to admire even without a purchase plan. The ‘Wansan Pig’s Trotters’, with its legendary story, is undoubtedly the most beautiful scenery. From the moment we parked the car and looked around, to the streets and alleys of the Zhouzhuang ancient town, they were everywhere for sale. Wansan Pig’s Trotters and Wansan Elbows are representatives of Zhouzhuang’s cuisine. With a glossy appearance and exquisite packaging, they are prominently displayed in shops.
The business genius Shen Wansan’s Shen Hall, Zhang Hall, and many former residences have added cultural depth to Zhouzhuang. The Shen Hall and Zhang Hall are indeed magnificent, with layers of courtyards, carved beams and painted rafters, exquisite carvings, and the furnishings and decorations inside are also artistic treasures that are appreciated by modern aesthetics. The craftsmanship of the past is truly worth appreciating and learning from.
After a tiring yet enjoyable stroll, we stumbled upon ‘Wan San Restaurant,’ a place we had seen reviewed. Nestled by the river, the restaurant’s second-floor loft offers a serene spot to rest while admiring the picturesque scenery of small bridges and flowing water. The group meal, a cost-effective choice, included the must-try Wan San Pork Elbow, steamed white fish, silver fish scrambled eggs, and clam and tofu soup—just right for three people. The painter Luo Guanzhong once praised: ‘Mount Huang gathers the beauty of China’s mountains and rivers, while Zhouzhuang gathers the beauty of China’s water towns.’ Although individual aesthetic views may vary, the charm of Zhouzhuang is undeniable.
In the afternoon, we returned to Shanghai, enjoying a smooth and traffic-free journey. As time allowed, we decided to take a leisurely stroll before retiring to our hotel, choosing the nearby First National Congress Site and Si Nan Mansion. The newly renovated brick-red and grey First National Congress Site and Memorial Hall stand as a model of patriotism education, with a steady stream of visitors making it an excellent spot for photo opportunities. Si Nan Mansion, located on Sinan Road, is a cluster of restored historical buildings, now housing cafes, hotels, and flower shops, blending fashion with history.Downtown Shanghai Parking Fees and Dinner at Rui Fu Yuan Friendship Restaurant
Parking fees in downtown Shanghai are exorbitantly high! For dinner, we opted for the Rui Fu Yuan Friendship Restaurant, another spot recommended by our girlfriends. Following the strategy from yesterday, we called ahead to secure a reservation. Despite our prompt arrival at seven, we faced a short wait before being seated.
Our Order and Dining Experience
We ordered a variety of dishes that we had in mind: stuffed snails, crab roe tofu, gluten, four-season baked gluten, salad, and crab roe fried buns, filling the table with a feast. Unfortunately, the sweet and sour pork ribs we had been craving were no longer available, having sold out long ago. The hearty dinner was a well-deserved treat for the elders after a long day.
A Must-See Day in Shanghai
A must-see day in Shanghai includes visits to the City God Temple and Yu Garden, both of which have been on our itinerary for years. Although few photos remain, the memory of the soup dumplings at the City God Temple lingers. These two attractions are must-visit spots within the city, located within a larger area—the City God Temple tourist area and Yu Garden Shopping Center.
The Yu Garden Shopping Center and City God Temple
It is said that many people know Yu Garden but only tour the commercial area of the Yu Garden Shopping Center, never truly entering Yu Garden itself. The shopping center is vast, accessible from all directions, and combines sightseeing, shopping, and culinary delights. The City God Temple, on the other hand, is a Taoist temple dating back to the Ming Dynasty, with over six hundred years of history. The temple is not large, but it is bustling with worshippers, with incense smoke wafting through the air. There is a free incense collection point at the entrance, where visitors can offer three sticks of incense to express their wishes for smoothness in life.
Yu Garden: An Oasis of Tranquility
Yu Garden is an oasis of tranquility amidst the bustling tourist area. It is free from the hustle and bustle of commercial shops and is a garden with characteristics of a Jiangnan water town, built during the Jiajing and Wanli periods of the Ming Dynasty, with a history of four to five hundred years. Within the garden, pavilions and towers, rockeries and real stones are interspersed, following the winding corridors, surrounded by lush greenery and deep, clear pools. Although it is late autumn, the weather in Jiangnan remains warm, with trees lush and full of vitality. The fragrance of osmanthus wafts through the air, bringing joy to the heart.
Tasting Various Sizes of Buns in Shanghai
After a full circle along the winding Nine-Turn Bridge, we entered another important theme: tasting various sizes of buns. In Shanghai, some buns are for eating, some for drinking. The soup-filled buns at Lv Bo Lang, though pricey at twenty-five yuan each, have a constant queue that varies in length. Soft and larger than palm-sized buns, carefully carried on a plate, the thin skin swaying with every step, as if the soup inside is eager to burst out at any moment. Fortunately, we found a bench nearby to sit down and enjoy our meal.
Etiquette for Eating Soup-Filled Buns
Eating these buns requires a certain etiquette: first, use a straw to make a small hole in the bun to release the steam, and some soup will flow into the plate. The plate must be held steady, otherwise, the soup could spill onto the thin paper plate and spread all over the ground. The surrounding oily stains are a warning. After drinking the soup, there is not much filling left, and the skin isn’t particularly appetizing, but considering the high cost of the buns, we can’t waste them.
Lunch at Lvbo Pavilion and Nanxiang Soup Dumplings
It was almost noon, and we wanted to have lunch at Lvbo Pavilion, but the queue stretched out from the restaurant’s entrance with a bend, so we decided to give up. After passing by several shops, we arrived at the queue for Nanxiang Soup Dumplings. For nearly two decades, my faint memory is of queuing here to buy soup dumplings. After purchasing two steamers, we returned to our hotel to rest.
Dinner at Gui Man Long on Nanjing Road
In the evening, we set off again for Nanjing Road. Our sumptuous dinner tonight was chosen at Gui Man Long on Nanjing Road. It was still early, and we had a good rest in the afternoon, so we decided to stroll along Nanjing Road before dining at Gui Man Long. Nanjing Road, known as the pinnacle of domestic pedestrian streets, is lined with shops and a mix of modern buildings and old European-style buildings. There are century-old department stores as well as new shopping centers, with various restaurants,As the night lights came on and various billboards flickered, it was a different scene, showcasing the prosperity and fashion of Shanghai.
Chongming Island Two-Day Tour: Chongming Island, after Taiwan and Hainan, is the third-largest island in our country and has become increasingly well-known in recent years, serving as a backyard for Shanghai residents for short-term vacations. The construction of the underwater tunnel and the sea-crossing bridge has shortened its distance from Shanghai, making it convenient to drive there. Chongming Island is vast, with attractions scattered around, mainly divided into two large areas: the east and the west.
We first arrived at the Xi Sha Wetland Park and Mingzhu Lake Scenic Area at the westernmost part of Chongming Island. Along the way, Chongming Island is so vast, with few cars and people, a beautiful environment, and fresh air. The roads are very new, with countryside and fields on both sides, no high-rise buildings. Driving on the road, with high-speed-like barriers on both sides, and the occasional traffic lights, you can only remember that this is a road, not a highway.
Entering the Xi Sha Wetland Park, you see a large area of water-rich wetlands, with neat rows of large trees, their roots firmly planted in the wetlands, their trunks tall and straight, and their leaves lush. We walked along the wooden plank road into the depths of the scenic area, and the towering trees gradually changed to large areas of reeds, walking through the reed patches, the plank road was winding, and it seemed that there was no way ahead, but after turning a corner, there was another long plank road. The fresh air and the invigorating scent of plants make one forget the fatigue of walking.
The most active creatures in the wetlands are undoubtedly the small crabs, much larger than those seen digging holes in the sand on the beach. The varieties are unfamiliar, and despite reading the introduction, they did not remain in memory. They are certainly not the usual hairy crabs or swimming crabs. Glancing casually into the wetlands reveals the darting figures of these small crabs. The tiny burrows are the joyful homes of the little crabs. At this size, according to Chef Li’s standards, they should be suitable for making drunken crabs.
Tired from walking, there are small pavilions in the middle of the plank road for tourists to rest, with pictures introducing the top ten wetlands around the world. At the end of the plank road, one can gaze at the Yangtze River just a stone’s throw away. Leaning on the railing to look into the distance, one’s mood becomes relaxed.
Xi Sha Pearl Lake, an independent scenic spot three kilometers away from the wetland park, is where we chose to take an electric cart for a tour around the lake. The eight-kilometer path around the lake is scenic, and traveling through it, one feels like an intruder as they pass through lakes, forests, and wetlands. Every man-made landscape seems to disrupt its original natural beauty. We got off at the electric cart stop closest to the entrance and first plunged into the pink grass for photos. Pink grass, seen in several park scenic spots in recent years, has grown into a large area here, which we couldn’t resist diving into for various poses. In the lush greenery, the pink always adds a stunning touch to the photos.
After leaving Pearl Lake, we wanted to find a place for lunch around the scenic spot, and at this time, we felt the desolation and bleakness of the off-season, with only a few farmhouse restaurants scattered about, all closed. We had to head to another scenic spot – Dongping Forest Park. Fortunately, there was a restaurant at the entrance of the park, not a farmhouse, but the kind of restaurant operated by a hotel that is open to the public. We managed to get the last table before the chef left at half-past two, and we ordered a few simple dishes. After a while, two more guests arrived and were informed that the chef had already left. We silently felt fortunate to have arrived just in time. Here, we tasted a small appetizer called golden melon, which was sweet and sour and very refreshing.
Entering Dongping Forest Park once again deepened our first impression of the Chongming Island scenic area – it’s huge! Looking in every direction, there are endless beautiful scenery and deserted paths. We decided to follow the entrance gate and choose a small nearby area for sightseeing. The trees are lush, the air is fresh, and there are many types of flowers and plants to admire. With the onset of autumn, the colors are vibrant. There are many amusement projects and signs for flower gardens within the park, barbecue area indications, and it occurs to us that spending a few days in this natural forest oxygen bar with family and friends would be a great pleasure. This small area has already made our legs feel heavy.
We toured ChongmingOn the second day of Chongming Island, we visited the Dongtan Wetland Park, located at the easternmost tip of the island, at the mouth of the Yangtze River. In the wetland mudflats, flower beds arranged with colorful flowers are dazzling, and in the ponds, the lotus leaves are lush and green, but unfortunately, the lotus flowers have already withered. The electric scooter takes us to the depths of the scenic area. We walk inside along the plank road. The Gesang flowers on both sides are extremely beautiful. Entering the depths of a hundred flowers, every photo is a beautiful one. The windmill cabin in the flowers brings the yearning for fairy tales. By the pond, there are domesticated ducks and geese making loud noises, adding vitality to the beautiful scenery. Dongtan Wetland Park is a must-pass route for migratory birds and also a wintering place for waterfowls. Bird watching and photography prompts can be seen everywhere in the scenic area. Unfortunately, the season we come is not suitable.
Without prior planning for dinner, we found a highly-rated restaurant that was already fully booked. The Eighth Road Pedestrian Street seems like the center of a small town, with some shops and restaurants. We ordered KFC to take back to the hotel for a good rest and rewarded ourselves with a chocolate ice cream, marking our first self-driven trip of over two hours from Shanghai to Chongming Island.
Shanghai, history and modernity. Back to Grand Shanghai! Passing through tunnels and crossing bridges, we have a smooth journey. Our hotel today is on Nanjing East Road, very close to the Bund. The two restaurants I was thinking about before are both near the hotel. The good location comes at the cost of inconvenient parking. There are traffic restrictions all around the hotel. Maybe the navigation doesn’t know yet. We circled around the hotel several times and couldn’t enter from any direction. Finally, we found a parking lot in a nearby small alley. It costs 120 yuan for 24 hours. So expensive! But there is no choice! Entering the hotel, a faint fragrance greets us, bringing joy and relaxation. We put down our luggage and walk out of the hotel to solve the lunch problem first. Dachun Spring Fried Dumplings highly recommended by my best friend is near the hotel. When we walked there, it was already past one o’clock in the afternoon. There were still many diners sitting in twos and threes in the restaurant. We ordered one portion of each of the three classic fillings: fresh meat, prawns, and crab roe. Dip a little vinegar. The outer skin is golden brown, crispy but not hard. The filling is delicious and abundant but not greasy. After coming back, my husband and I commented like this: This is the best fried dumpling I have ever eaten. Moreover, it is economical and the price is definitely affordable. Just now I was in a hurry. After eating and going out to look carefully, I found many honors hanging at the door: Famous Chinese Snack, China’s Gold Medal Snack, Intangible Cultural Heritage of Huangpu District, Top 100 Gold Medal Snacks in Shanghai, Listed in Michelin Guide, and Listed on Dianping. It’s full of a wall.
Passing through a short alley, we arrive at the Bund. The Bund is definitely the representative of Grand Shanghai. In movies and TV dramas many years ago, when Shanghai appeared, it must be introduced with the clock building of the Shanghai Customs House. The exotic buildings of different styles tell the history of Shanghai. Looking up, the three landmark buildings in Lujiazui on the opposite side show the modernity and fashion of Grand Shanghai. While enjoying the scenery, we walked along the Huangpu River and came to Chen Yi Square. Chen Yi served as the first mayor of Shanghai. His statue stands majestically and heroically on the Bund Square. At the Bund, tourists are in an endless stream, but it is much better than the peak season scene I saw before. There is no feeling of crowding. Taking photos can also be framed relatively easily without taking group photos. It’s a pity that the weather is not good. It’s gloomy and not transparent, and the photos are not good-looking. We saw the famous Peace Hotel. This century-old historical building is a landmark representative on the scenic line of the historical buildings on the Bund and is listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit. It frequently appears in movies and TV dramas. The mysterious legend about the Peace Hotel has never stopped. Passing through the Peace Hotel, wow, our Metropolo Hotel Jinjiang is right next to it. When making the reservation, I only noticed that it was convenient to go to several planned restaurants. I didn’t expect that it would be a neighbor of the Peace Hotel.
Using the short time to rest back at the hotel, I went to buy the butterfly crisps of the International Hotel recommended byAfter a brief rest at the hotel, we eagerly set out in the afternoon to taste the ‘Old Man’s Oil-Drenched Shrimp’ on Nanjing Road again. The hotel is conveniently located on East Nanjing Road, with the Oriental Pearl Tower to the left and Nanjing Road to the right. It’s absolutely possible to remember a city because of a restaurant, and I love Hangzhou for its ‘Old Man’s Oil-Drenched Shrimp’, which I’ve visited many times. This trip, I almost arranged a one-day trip to Hangzhou just for this delicacy, but later found out that there’s one near my hotel in Shanghai, which excited me greatly. I’ve checked multiple times, and there are no branches in Beijing. If ‘Old Man’s Oil-Drenched Shrimp’ opens a store in Beijing, I would definitely become its VVIP.
Stepping into Nanjing Road again, I was warmly invited to try the old Shanghai snowflake cream sold at the central pavilions. These days, this old domestic product is everywhere, with the faint scent of jasmine and osmanthus, which I like the most. Not being a tourist novice, I immediately ordered some online to be delivered home.
‘Old Man’s Oil-Drenched Shrimp’, long time no see. The classic must-try dishes include oil-drenched shrimp, deep-fried ribbon fish, West Lake lotus root, tender sweet shrimp with beans, and a few other small dishes that do not tempt bread anymore. The unchanged delicious taste is satisfying, as if I have come to the West Lake again.
The night at the Bund is extraordinarily lively. The Oriental Pearl Tower keeps changing colors, and various colored lights flicker on major buildings, with a bustling crowd. The entrance and exit of the Bund have been changed to one-way traffic, with police maintaining order. To take a good photo in a good location, you have to queue and squeeze in. There are so many people that I thought of a word ‘stampede’!
Today, I am leaving the big Shanghai to return to Beijing. It is drizzling outside, and the sky is overcast. We cannot waste this precious morning. After having a simple breakfast at the hotel, we set out for the Bund again. As we left the hotel, the rain stopped, and only light gray and dark gray clouds floated around, which was too proud of the good luck. Compared to the murky sky yesterday, today’s photo effect is much better. There are very few people on the Bund, and it is in stark contrast to last night’s liveliness. You can take photos casually and occupy a large area, which is too extravagant!
Walking across the Waibaidu Bridge, I found the place where my girlfriends and I took photos during our trip, and took pictures to check in. Without comparison, there is no harm, and the blue sky and white clouds during the summer vacation are indeed very beautiful. The Waibaidu Bridge is not very long, about a hundred meters, with a silver-white steel bridge body, and it has a history of a hundred years, and it is also a common shooting location for movies and TV dramas.
Crossing the Waibaidu Bridge, I walked to the Bund source area, and walked back along the alleys, witnessing historical exotic style ancient buildings everywhere, thick and deep, tough and elegant. When I got home, my husband asked me what impressed me the most on this trip, and I said: ‘It’s the old buildings in Shanghai, I can’t get enough of them, and they can calm my heart.’ For me who loves the natural scenery of mountains and rivers, I didn’t expect this answer myself.
At noon, I had lunch early. I definitely cannot leave any regrets and ate the crab noodles and shrimp noodles at Yuxingji. Luxurious and satisfying. The squirrel fish in the group buying package makes up for my regret of choosing between West Lake vinegar fish and squirrel mandarin fish at Gui Man Long. This trip is perfect in terms of food. None of the planned delicious meals can be missed!
On the more than four-hour return high-speed train journey, I start to refine next month’s itinerary! October 2023.
