QianDeng Ancient Town is located 15 kilometers north of Kunshan city center, 35 kilometers west of Suzhou city center, and 30 kilometers east of Shanghai Hongqiao Airport. It is nestled among numerous water towns, with well-known ones like Wuzhen and Xitang further away, and closer ones like Zhouzhuang, Jinxi, Luzhi, and Tongli. Unlike the more famous ancient towns, QianDeng is not as exquisite but rather a typical residence for the daily life of water town residents.
In an obscure corner of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, there are many such water towns hidden away, and after being enclosed as scenic spots, they save visitors the trouble of searching for the ordinary local water town farmhouses, which are reminiscent of what a Jiangnan girl or boy might call their grandmother’s home. The ancient town has four main attractions: the longest stone-paved street in Jiangsu Province, the Yanfu Zen Temple, the birthplace of Kunqu Opera, and the hometown of Gu Yanwu. QianDeng Ancient Town runs from north to south, with the main entrance situated in the middle of the town, on the eastern side, separated from the town by the QianDeng Pu river. You can stroll along the long corridor on the east side of the river with sheds, observing the water town houses with white walls and black tiles, clothes drying by the river, and the elderly leisurely teasing the birds in bamboo cages by the windows. Alternatively, cross the bridge to walk on the longest stone-paved street in Jiangsu Province, a small path paved with bluestone slabs that runs through the town from north to south, spanning 1.5 kilometers. The street is narrow, with the eaves of the buildings on both sides forming a continuous line of sight, and residents living on the second floor on either side of the street can reach out and shake hands with each other. There are many shops in the town renting out traditional costumes, where you can also take photos in period attire. With a history of 2500 years, for those interested in ancient architecture, it is recommended to tour from the north to the south of the town. The Yu’s Pawnshop in the north of the town, a residence of Hui merchants from the late Ming to early Qing dynasties, was considered a prominent household in the town at the time. The existing five-entry Hui-style architecture is quite imposing, with redwood furniture inside and exquisite carvings on the doors. The Yanfu Zen Temple and Qin Peak Pagoda, located south of Yu’s Pawnshop, were both originally built in the second year of the Tianjian era of the Liang Dynasty (AD 503), and have been repeatedly destroyed and repaired through the ages. You can pray in the temple like the local people. The seven-story Qin Peak Pagoda is a landmark of the ancient town, visible from a distance at the entrance of the town, but unfortunately, it cannot be climbed for conservation reasons. Further south, at the mid-section of the ancient town, is the Gu Jian Memorial Hall. Gu Jian, a native of QianDeng from the late Yuan to early Ming dynasties, was one of the founders of Kunshan tune (Kunqu Opera). The memorial hall, along with the ancient stage next to it, only hosts performances of Kunqu Opera and Jiangnan silk and bamboo music when group tourists arrive. At the southern end of the ancient town is the former residence of the late Ming to early Qing dynasty thinker Gu Yanwu, who proposed the idea that ‘the rise and fall of the world is the responsibility of every individual’. The facade is modest, but the interior is much larger than expected. The brick carvings on the old house’s gate tower are worth a look. To the south is Gu Yanwu’s tomb (Tinglin Tomb) and Tinglin Temple, and further west, there is the garden-style Gu Garden. If you wish to explore the ancient town further, you can visit the Jiangnan Household to see the layout of an ordinary Jiangnan family from the past; not far from the Gu Jian Memorial Hall is the QianDeng Lantern Pavilion, which displays thousands of oil lamps from ancient times to the present; and the Root Carving Pavilion in the north of the town features root boats similar to those described in the high school text ‘The Record of a Boat Carved from a Nut’, with the boat being no more than 4 inches long.There is a carving only 5 centimeters long with 29 characters as small as soybeans. The eight windows on the boat can be pushed. There is also the Yongfu Well (double well) on the roadside, both of which can bring you surprises. On both sides of the ancient town’s flagstone street are numerous shops. There are also some restaurants by the corridor along the river. You can taste snacks such as Gordon Euryale Seed Cake, green glutinous rice balls (seasonal pastries for the Tomb-Sweeping Festival), and wafer-like pastries.
Among them, wafer-like pastries have a good reputation among tourists who have visited the ancient town. While strolling and eating or finding a small shop to sit down, remember to order a bowl of Aozao Noodles, a characteristic delicacy of Kunshan. Small wontons are also good. The soup is full of shredded egg skins, laver, and dried small shrimps. Opening hours: From October 1st to April 30th, it is open from 08:00 to 16:30; from May 1st to September 30th, it is open from 08:00 to 17:00.
