Step into the Painting of Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, Discover the Dreamlike Records of the Eastern Capital

Ah, to awaken from last night’s wine, where would I find myself? On the willow bank, perhaps, with the morning breeze whispering and the waning moon casting its soft glow. The song of Liu Yong, ‘Rain Bells,’ resonates with me, stirring a myriad of emotions, whether heard in the dialect of Kaifeng or the soft tones of Wu. If time could reverse, I would yearn to journey back a thousand years, to be born into the noble families celebrated for their poetry and grace. On an auspicious day, with a book and a painting in hand, I would venture to the land of prosperity and peace, to listen to the enchanting melodies of Liu Qilang and witness Xin Qiji’s sword dance, his spirit heightened by wine. I would inquire of Zhang Hanlin, what delicacies does the Sunyang Restaurant recommend?

The ancient Bian River flows through the annals of a thousand years, its light and shadow playing upon pavilions and towers, a dreamlike spectacle. At the edge of the dim lights, the fragrance of the carved carriages fills the streets. The homeland and old friends, the Eastern Capital Bianjing, remain the eternal dreams in the hearts of countless people from the Central Plains who moved south.

If I could step into a painting, I would do so without hesitation, fulfilling a long-cherished wish in my heart. It is a painting that can make one fall in love with a city, or at least, come to understand it. The ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’ by Zhang Zeduan, measuring 5.28 meters in length and 24.8 centimeters in width, depicts life on the outskirts of the Northern Song Dynasty’s capital, Bianjing, with over 800 figures and more than 90 animals. The historical and artistic significance of this masterpiece is beyond dispute.

The legendary experiences of nearly a millennium and the historical mysteries surrounding it captivate the world. The more than 30 versions of ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’ collected by museums globally are a testament to its influence (the following image is a stone carving of ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’ in Kaifeng Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Park).

This national treasure, having endured many trials, causes a sensation whenever displayed on important holidays. People wait in line for hours just to catch a glimpse under dim lights. Despite meticulous care, time has faded its colors, and the repeated unfolding has worn down its details. Yet, the lines, though gradually blurred, still reveal the wine shops and tile-roofed houses of the Eastern Capital, the soldiers and merchants, like an old silent film, recording the distant life of the Northern Song Dynasty’s capital.

Zhang Zeduan once brought the streets of the Eastern Capital of the Northern Song Dynasty into his painting. A thousand years later, after disasters and floods, the Eastern Capital has been buried deep under the loess. We have rebuilt the Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Park based on the existing scrolls.

As we lament the changes of the world, we cannot help but admire the greatness of this city. For thousands of years, it has been destroyed and resurrected, destroyed again and resurrected again. This city under our feet, with its tenacious vitality, has lived a legend. This is today’s ancient capital of eight dynasties – Kaifeng, a city full of legendary colors.

Traveling in the painting, in the Northern Song Dynasty without mobile navigation, Zhang Zeduan’s ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’ is your ideal guide map. With Meng Yuanlao’s ‘Dreamlike Records of the Eastern Capital,’ dressed in clothes that fit the scene, walk, look, and taste the romantic and poetic life of that era.

Perhaps only now do you realize that the Northern Song Dynasty is not far away. For more than a thousand years, our culture has never been interrupted. What you see is both novel and familiar. What you hear is still the familiar tune. The familiar rural scenery, the bustling streets and alleys, the demeanor and gestures of the merchants, through the images, you can hear the noisy cries of the Kaifeng vegetable market, and you can smell the freshly cooked snacks, still the familiar taste.

Even a grand masterpiece like the ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’ only captures a corner of the super metropolis of Bianjing. The prosperity of Bianjing city may surpass our imagination of the past. Meng Yuanlao’s ‘Dreamlike Tokyo Record’ serves as the best textual annotation to ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival,’ depicting the urban architecture, customs, and daily life of Bianjing city, and also expressing the memories and nostalgia of the southern migrants for their homeland.

Based on Meng Yuanlao’s records and Zhang Zeduan’s depictions, we step into the brothels and enjoy the various performances from the Song Dynasty. In addition to the ‘Dreamlike Tokyo’ performance at night, there are nearly a hundred performances during the day at the Qingming Shanghe Garden.Embarking on a journey through the rich tapestry of Kaifeng’s Qingming Shanghe Garden, one is immediately captivated by a plethora of must-see events. Among them are the dramatic Bao Gong Welcoming Guests, the historically evocative Bian River Transportation, the vigilant Bao Gong’s Inspection, the mesmerizing Qi Gong Fire Breathing, the comedic Wang’s Recruitment of a Son-in-law, the valorous Yue Fei’s Spear Challenge to the Little Liang King, the intellectual Song Dynasty Imperial Examination, the daring Heroes of Liangshan Outlaws Robbing Prison Carts, and the epic Great Song · Tokyo Defense War. These performances, nearly always packed, are a testament to their popularity, as evidenced by the smiles of tourists and the frequent interactions between artists and audience members. Here, one can encounter well-known heroic figures and partake in engaging, age-appropriate interactive experiences.

The garden’s chrysanthemums are in full, breathtaking bloom, a kaleidoscope of colors and forms. Pink and peach blossom chrysanthemums, white and sandalwood heart chrysanthemums, yellow and round golden bell chrysanthemums, pure white and large happiness chrysanthemums, and the rare sight of blue, green, and multicolored chrysanthemums paint a vivid picture. The sight evokes the unending passion of Meng Yuanlao, who, despite never witnessing the golden chrysanthemums of Bianjing, would find solace in the knowledge that we are fortunate to experience this blooming splendor.

Beyond the outdoor splendor, four indoor venues offer a fairyland-like experience for chrysanthemum enthusiasts. The charm of these flowers is not confined to daylight; at night, they take on a dreamlike quality, interwoven with colorful lights. For residents of the scenic area, like myself, the entire chrysanthemum garden is a delight to behold.

The night tour of the Qingming Shanghe Garden is an enchanting experience, with tickets priced at 80 for adults and 60 for concessions. The reduced price and the enchanting night scenery make for an experience that transcends time, as one walks through with a lamp,仿佛 transported back to the Song Dynasty.

The ‘Dreamlike Tokyo Record’ and other historical accounts suggest that the water palace and pavilion are not fully depicted in the ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’. It is possible that the existing painting is incomplete, missing many iconic structures of Tokyo and the thin gold body inscription of Emperor Huizong of Song, as well as its double dragon seal. This mystery adds to the allure of the garden, beckoning visitors to explore its depths.

The grand live performance, ‘Great Song · Tokyo Dreamlike’, is the crowning jewel of the Qingming Shanghe Garden’s night offerings. This 70-minute spectacle propels the visitor through the heart of Tokyo Bianjing, with music and a slow unveiling of a thousand-year-old painting, evoking deep emotions. The performance, strung together with Song poetry and divided into six acts and four scenes, is enhanced by the ‘Bian River’ water venue, making the poetic aesthetics even more captivating and transporting one back to the Song Dynasty.

There’s no need for elaborate descriptions; the full houses speak for themselves. In summary, a visit to Kaifeng’s Qingming Shanghe Garden is incomplete without experiencing ‘Great Song · Tokyo Dreamlike’.

Sun Yang Zhengdian, a delightful restaurant, is another highlight of the ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’. The peculiar name piques curiosity—does it belong to someone surnamed Sun, or is it a master of mutton or whole sheep dishes? It evokes the artistic elegance of Meng Yuanlao’s ‘Hui Xian Restaurant’. The delicacies described by Meng Yuanlao are sure to whet one’s appetite, making a visit to the ‘Zhang Zeduan’ family’s Sun Yang restaurant a must. Among the sumptuous offerings, the carp baked with noodles, a top ten Henan dish, is not to be missed. Its fine and delicious noodles are a Kaifeng specialty. The barrel chicken, a local Kaifeng dish, is a must-try, with its salty, fragrant, tender, and crisp yet non-greasy flavor. My personal favorite, mutton soup with noodles, is superb here, with an extremely fresh and aromatic broth, devoid of any muttony smell. Kaifeng peanuts, both five-spice and spicy, are renowned and have become a dish at Sun Yang’s main store. The stir-fried jelly is a delight, distinct from its Xi’an counterpart in color but equally tasty. Lastly, the almond tea is a former court beverage, made from refined almond powder and accompanied by a variety of ingredients, including almonds, peanuts, sesame, rose, osmanthus, raisins, goji berries, cherry, white**Qingming Shanghe Garden: A Journey Through Time and Beauty**

From the ingredients, one can tell it must be very cooling! The Qingming Shanghe Garden is a place where details make or break the experience, and it has left a deep impression on me. Few scenic spots can make you feel its warmth through details, but this one has.

**Impressive Amenities and Consideration**

It is worth mentioning that the restrooms and boiled water in the park are clean and tidy, with tables and chairs provided, which is very convenient for the elderly. Free boiled water caters to the needs of the elderly and children, and from these details, we can see the humanization of the scenic spot. Can you believe this is a specially designated rest area in the restroom? It is really considerate.

**Cultural Treasures and Accommodations**

There is also a 25 yuan ‘Qingming Shanghe Painting’ in the ancient lamp museum in the park, which I think is worth it. I bought one and used it as a photography prop. The accommodation within the scenic spot is a treasure – an ancient and elegant hotel with standard rooms, free boat transportation, breakfast included, and two tickets given, along with free parking. You can calculate it yourself, I feel like I’ve made a profit, right?

**Experiencing the Ancient and Elegant**

My room and the lobby public area are perfect for taking ancient-style photos. The boat that picked us up saved me the cost of taking a boat tour, and the staff on the boat who will actively help you move your luggage are very considerate.

**One Book, One Painting, One World**

How much breadth and magnanimity does it take to contain the Bianjing city, and how much talent and skill does it take to condense the entire society into a piece of silk only a palm wide? From high-ranking officials to peddlers, from all walks of life, the depiction is both precise and vivid. Joys and sorrows, the faces of all living beings. Livestock, houses, bridges, and boats, with rich layers, complex and intricate, tight but not chaotic, arranged in an orderly manner. Without an in-depth experience of urban life, without in-depth observation of all trades, without passion for this city, how can such a timeless masterpiece be created?

One painting, one book, is the standard for visiting the Qingming Shanghe Garden. The merchant ships under the Hongqiao still pass by as they did a thousand years ago, and the solemn Shangshan Gate still stands there. Only by understanding the meaning in the book can one truly appreciate the Qingming Shanghe Garden.

**A Glimpse into the Past**

Although the scenic spot has restored many scenes from the ‘Qingming Shanghe Painting’ and ‘Tokyo Dreamlike Chronicles’, this is just the tip of the iceberg of the Northern Song Dynasty’s Bianjing city. At that time, Bianjing city was still the center of the world, the most prosperous super metropolis.

Time filters sorrow, leaving only beauty behind. Remember Zong Ze who died with regret, repeatedly calling out ‘cross the river, cross the river, cross the river’? And Lu You, who left a will saying ‘When the royal army stabilizes the Central Plains, do not forget to tell your old man during family sacrifices’. When we cheer for Yue Fei’s thrilling performance against the Little Liang King, we do not think of Yue Fei’s tragic end. In the Song Dynasty, there were not only the graceful and romantic Li Qingzhao and Liu Yong, but also the heroic Xin Qiji and Lu You. Besides luxurious carriages and fine horses, there were also heroic generals.

I saw an elderly lady wanting to take a photo with a compass sculpture, and I also saw groups of primary school students on educational trips. A thousand years ago, a young man studied here, and later he painted ‘Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival’. Perhaps, the next genius has just passed by you.

If time could flow backward, I would use a red scarf and green sleeves to wipe away the tears of the old hero Xin. If time could flow backward, I would write a letter to Lu You to tell him that the Central Plains have been stabilized, and the ‘Nine Provinces are united’.

If I could travel through time, I would only want to return to the present! One book, one painting, one world; one garden, one dream; one cycle.

**Visit the Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Garden, reminisce about the past and appreciate the present.**

**About the Itinerary:**

– **Date:** Departure on October 19th, a total of 3 days
– **Itinerary:**
– D1: Xi’an – Kaifeng Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Garden [Stay in Kaifeng]
– D2: Daytime visit to Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Garden, night tour, and performance of ‘Eastern Capital Dream’ [Stay within the scenic area]
– D3: Half-day visit and return to Xi’an

**About the Cost:**

1. Admission ticket: Single purchase 120 yuan. **Note** – It is recommended to follow my example and choose to stay within the scenic area, which can save you a lot of money.
2. Man Ting Fang Hotel: 480 yuan per night (2 admission tickets: 120 x 2 = 240 yuan, including breakfast for two: 30 x 2 = 60 yuan, parking fee: 25 yuan, boat ride for two: approximately 50 yuan). My goodness, the actual accommodation fee is only: 115 yuan. No, no, no, I forgot the key point, staying within the scenic area means that after 10 pm, the entire Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival Garden is all yours.You can take photos freely because the lights go out at 11 pm.

The full price for a separate night tour ticket is 80 yuan, half price is 60 yuan. For two people at the lowest half price, it equals 120 yuan. 115 – 120? Did I make a mistake? I stayed in a hotel and didn’t spend a penny, and I even got 5 yuan back. I simply admire my own rationality. Hurry up and get it!

I have personally tested that you can check in at the left side of Jin Shui Gate at 9 am. You can call the front desk to send a boat to pick you and your luggage up. After checking in, record your face at the hotel front desk, and then you can freely enter and exit the scenic area gate. I can’t help but praise myself again. I am simply brilliant!

‘The Great Song – Eastern Capital Dream’ performance ticket: 249 – 999 yuan per person (for specific seat prices, refer to official information). Another hidden benefit found: With a ticket for the Eastern Capital Dream performance, there is no need to purchase an admission ticket. The performance is on from March to November every year, starting at 20:10, lasting for 70 minutes.

Have a great time, babies!