A Serene Three-Day Getaway with the Kids: A Journey through Time and Space

**A Serene Retreat: Anlu Zhujiajiao with Family**

**Duration:** 3 days
**Time:** March
**Cost per Person:** 4000 yuan
**With Whom:** Parent-Child
**Mode of Travel:** Self-driving
**Weekend Getaway**

In March, I embarked on a three-day, two-night retreat with my child, seeking a peaceful escape from the daily hustle. Our destination was Anlu, a place that translates to “peace and hillside,” a haven amidst the city’s chaos. The author’s journey to Anlu was first sparked by a magazine article, and the allure of retreating with children, especially during their spirited years, was too enticing to resist. A half-day of leisure seemed like a form of self-compassion amidst the chaos of chasing and roaring that fills my life.

Lao Xue suggested that instead of staring at each other at home every day, we should take advantage of the blooming spring and go out for a walk. Thus, we decided to embark on this impromptu journey. With themes of visiting an ancient town and enjoying cherry blossoms, Anlu became our preferred choice, not for seclusion but for seeking a place for the soul to rest.

Anlu has its own hotels in Zhujiajiao, Shanghai, and Shaoxing, both with a long history. The ancient town of Zhujiajiao and the blooming cherry blossoms in Shaoxing aligned with our wishes, and the drive between the two is conveniently around two hours, making self-driving very easy. A time-travel encounter from the city center of Shanghai to Anlu Zhujiajiao takes about an hour. Upon parking the car in the underground garage, a concierge immediately came to help with the luggage.

The first time I heard of Anlu, I simply thought the name was pleasant and memorable, only to later discover that it is a sister brand of Aman. Zhujiajiao Anlu is the first hotel opened by Anlu in China. Those who wish to retreat are always there, but secluded places are hard to find, and Anlu seems to exist for this very reason. Unlike other hotels that merely imitate ancient styles on the surface, Anlu embeds Chinese architectural culture in its core. The buildings here all come from centuries-old Huizhou ancient buildings, with every tile and piece of wood gently telling stories of historical changes.

The ‘Wu Feng Lou’ where Zhujiajiao Anlu is located is a Ming Dynasty ancient residence with a history of six hundred years. This six-hundred-year-old Ming Dynasty Huizhou ancient building, after meticulous restoration by craftsmen, has been restored one-to-one in this ancient town of Zhujiajiao with a history of thousands of years, becoming a temporary retreat for many people.

The hotel lobby is located within Wu Feng Lou, which is known as ‘the first official hall in Jiangnan’, naturally imposing, with a sense of simplicity from Ming and Qing architecture. Wu Feng Lou is a typical Huizhou building, following the layout of ‘five in front and seven behind, three rooms and two sky wells’, with every brick and wood revealing the ‘slowness’ of that era. This might be the unique charm of ancient buildings. Walking inside Wu Feng Lou, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, everything seems to slow down, and the heart begins to calm. The four characters ‘Never Forget the Original Intention’ inside the lobby seem to express the essence of inner peace. On the tea table in the hall, there are books, guzheng, ink, paper, and inkstones, all with a unique charm, as well as toys from our childhood, shuttlecocks, tops… I pick one up for Casper, hey, look, this is the toy mom used to play with when she was a child.

The hotel rooms are hidden behind this Huizhou-style Ming Dynasty official hall. There are independent villa guest rooms one by one, creating personal private spaces. Before making a reservation, I did my homework thoroughly and finally booked the Yangting Pavilion, which is considered the basic room type of his family. There are a total of 35 hotel villas and 4 room types in his family, but each room type has an independent and exclusive private garden. So in terms of cost performance, the Yangting Pavilion is unrivaled.

After checking in, the butler took us to the room and carefully introduced the basic facilities of the room. Different from the ancient charm of the Wufeng Tower, the room has more modernity. The simple and elegant wooden decoration style combined with soft lighting makes the whole room appear low-key and luxurious. It is still chilly in spring, but the room is as warm as spring. The sun shines in through the large floor-to-ceiling glass windows, especially warm. The independent air conditioning system can be used with confidence even during the epidemic. The entire room is also equipped with underfloor heating. This is really considerate for babies who like to run around barefoot. A king-size double bed has no pressure in space even with a baby who sleeps irregularly.His family’s bed is incredibly comfortable, living up to its reputation as a 7-foot large bed from a century-old Swedish brand with just the right firmness. For those accustomed to the baby sleeping alone, the hotel can prepare a separate baby bed in advance. The wash area is spacious, with double sinks placed symmetrically at both ends, evoking a sense of Chinese balance. Beyond an independent shower room and toilet, there’s a large bathtub, ensuring the baby has a place for nighttime baths.

Anlu doesn’t primarily market itself as a parent-child hotel, so don’t expect an abundance of toy tents or rocking horses within the room. It might not be a traditional parent-child hotel, but as a high-end brand, it could be more suitable for families than typical parent-child accommodations. Beyond the daily essentials for babies—such as toothbrushes, toothpaste, exclusive toiletries, and small slippers—the cultural heritage here subtly influences the little ones, exposing them to traditional Chinese culture early on.

For Casper, the most captivating feature of the room is the courtyard, where every plant and tree offers a new world to explore. In this private and independent space, we can let him play freely without worry. Seclusion here is not about living with a dim lamp and plain porridge; it’s about enriching the heart. At Anlu Hotel in Zhujiajiao, there’s no fear of boredom, as life’s pleasures are easily found.

I’ve always been fascinated by cooking, which is not synonymous with being a haggard housewife. It doesn’t require wielding a large spoon over high heat with copious oil. Learning to make Western-style pastries can add a touch of ceremony to life. We booked a sandwich course in advance at the hotel. This seemingly simple sandwich requires careful attention to be truly delicious.

The class takes place in Anlu’s all-day dining room, adjacent to the poolside with an all-glass wall offering a panoramic view of the blue swimming pool. Chef Jason has prepared the ingredients, and upon our arrival, his smile is as warm as the sunshine outside. His unhurried speech is as soothing as the day itself.

Jason demonstrates the ingredients while providing easy-to-understand explanations: when does bread taste best when baked, how to keep it crispy, and how to prevent sandwiches from becoming dry and hard. These are all useful tips that even kitchen novices can quickly grasp. When the sandwich emerges from the oven, Casper can hardly wait. The bread has a crispy crust and a soft texture, with rich fillings and a mellow sauce that makes him forget about his image. Suddenly, I’m quite looking forward to their dinner.

After this special afternoon tea, I take Casper for a walk by the swimming pool, enjoying the long-lost sunshine, blue sky, and white clouds, and the vibrant spring. Anlu in Zhujiajiao is like a piece of art worth savoring slowly, capturing the essence of ancient Chinese architectural culture. Walking to the main entrance of the Five Phoenix Tower, one can better appreciate the grandeur of the entire building. The five pairs of wing angles resemble phoenixes spreading their wings, hence the name. The plaque on the lintel, ‘Dafu Di’, exudes an air of official prestige. A pair of stone lions at the entrance guard the owner’s auspiciousness and safety, with one female and one male symbolizing not just a large family but also power. Upon closer inspection, these lions are true masterpieces, with even their eyes differing— the female looking inward and the male gazing into the distance, implying traditional gender roles of men and women.

Chinese architecture is all about the details, each stroke a story. The beams are carved with mascots like qilin, pixiu, and magpies, symbolizing longevity, immortality, and wealth, with fine craftsmanship and lifelike shapes that elicit admiration. The door fittings, though weathered and marked by time, still hint at the prominent family background of the era. I highly recommend having the butler guide you through the Five Phoenix Tower, sharing its stories. This is the essence of Anlu. Entering the first courtyard feels like embarking on an elegant journey through time, with red lanterns hanging in the corridors symbolizing peace and a photography exhibition on the walls, blending modern art with the old house. Stepping on the gold bricks, one can feel the upturned eaves, carved beams, and painted pillars.Yesterday, we had arranged with the butler to take a Tai Chi class this morning. Though I had little understanding of Tai Chi, I was eager to experience the charm of this ancient Eastern exercise. The hotel had thoughtfully provided Tai Chi attire in the wardrobe. After changing, we took Casper and embraced the morning light in the Da Fu Di, practicing Tai Chi to cultivate our bodies and minds. Each movement and posture allowed us to feel the harmony of yin and yang, with each form demonstrating the principle of stillness overcoming motion, and softness overcoming hardness. It was as if time stood still with each breath we took… While I was engrossed in martial arts, our son was not idle. He picked up a brush pen and began to ink and doodle, showing a determined interest in learning literature. After the class, we took our son for a stroll around the Wu Feng Lou. Looking up at the wooden windows on the second floor of the lobby, we found the Book Fragrance Pavilion, once the secluded quarters of young ladies, now transformed into a serene library, the perfect place for reading. On one side of the staircase was a children’s play area, a treasure trove that kept Casper occupied, allowing us to steal a half-day of leisure to read a few chapters from our favorite books. In one corner of the Book Fragrance Pavilion, there was a table with scriptures and calligraphy tools. Copying the scriptures easily calmed our restless minds, and time slipped away as we sat engrossed. It was Casper’s first encounter with these traditional tools, and he found it fascinating, pretending to write and draw on paper, which was quite amusing. Traditional culture still needs to be passed down, whether it’s to craftsmen or literati. Allowing children to learn more about Chinese traditional arts broadens their horizons, increases their knowledge, and teaches them about tradition. Perhaps this is also one of the reasons why I chose An Lu. Their spa and relaxation pavilion are also distinctive features, but unfortunately, they were not open due to the pandemic, so we had to leave this unique experience for our next visit.

In the evening, being too lazy to go out of the hotel, we decided to taste the delicious food at Anlu. If there are many people, it is recommended to reserve a private room. The private room faces the Five Phoenix Tower. When you open the door, you can see the theater. The design of two floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides allows the scenery to naturally blend into the room, making it private and secluded. When coming to Zhujiajiao, naturally, we have to taste the famous local water town specialties. Among them, white fish, as one of the three whites of Taihu Lake, is one of the must-try delicacies when coming to the ancient town. But I always think that white fish has many bones and is bland and tasteless when steamed. However, Anlu has overturned my impression of white fish. Only here can white fish taste as delicious as shad. Salted pork and fresh bamboo shoot soup is a classic Shanghai delicacy and also a seasonal ingredient. Especially in spring when the bamboo shoots are tender, having a bowl of ‘salted pork and fresh bamboo shoot soup’ with an old Shanghai flavor is heartwarming and stomach-soothing.

The highlight of our dining experience was their signature dish, Mango Pomelo Sago with a touch of sweetness that was not overpowering, perfectly complemented by a scoop of ice cream. The variety of dishes offered, both in presentation and taste, catered perfectly to children’s preferences. The vibrant color combinations enticed our son, Casper, to eagerly anticipate each dish, and the light, health-conscious flavors ensured that the baby could eat with peace of mind. After dinner, we returned to our room to find the night turndown service had been completed, and the health-promoting dessert prepared in accordance with the twenty-four solar terms ensured a restful night’s sleep. Stealing a leisurely half-day from our busy lives, we woke up to a pre-booked breakfast delivered to our room – a mix of Chinese and Western styles to satisfy both my husband and I with our differing culinary preferences. The morning sunlight streamed in through the floor-to-ceiling windows, casting a warm glow over the room and ceremoniously marking the start of a new day. It was a truly delightful experience. Our two little food enthusiasts were already raring to dig in.

It is precisely these historical heritages that have created Anlu with an ancient charm and simplicity from the heart. Opposite the Five Phoenix Tower is a theater from the late Qing Dynasty, which also has a history of a hundred years. The front eaves are decorated with golden pillars with coiled dragons, and the interior ceiling has a domed caisson. The entire theater is magnificent. All kinds of opera characters and classical legends are carved and remembered as history here. Every cherry blossom season, the two weeping cherry trees on both sides of the ancient theaterAs we packed our luggage in our room, we prepared to embark on our second leg of the journey, to Lan Ting An Lu in Shaoxing. Escaping the hustle and bustle, we found ourselves in a fairyland. A two-hour drive from Shanghai’s Zhujiajiao took us to Shaoxing, followed by a five-minute journey after exiting the Shao Zhu Expressway.

Lan Ting An Lu is inspired by Wang Xizhi’s ‘Preface to the Poems Composed at the Orchid Pavilion’, and the hotel’s construction strives to recreate the scenes described in the poem—lush mountains and clear, rushing streams, as poetic and dreamlike as can be. If Zhujiajiao An Lu is a hidden gem within an ancient town, then Shaoxing Lan Ting An Lu is a fairyland at the foot of the mountains, absorbing the essence of heaven and earth.

Sharing similarities with the Anlu in Zhujiajiao, the architecture here has also been relocated from Huizhou and meticulously restored to its original splendor, appearing brand new yet ancient. Upon parking your vehicle in the lot, a shuttle service is available, though the main lobby is not far from the parking area. If you’re not laden with heavy luggage, it’s recommended to walk, as you’ll encounter many cherry blossom-lined paths that are quite beautiful.

The hotel lobby is situated within a relocated General’s Mansion from Anhui, a typical Huizhou-style architecture. The mansion features a dual courtyard layout, providing excellent natural lighting. A robust and dignified ‘winter melon beam’ can be considered the gem of the entire structure. Inside the General’s Mansion, you’ll find numerical markings on the pillars, not the work of a mischievous child, but rather the workers’ method for accurately restoring the building.

The process of reconstructing ancient architecture is an intricate and time-consuming task, involving dismantling the structure at its original site and meticulously recording the location of each piece before gradual restoration. Employing seasoned craftsmen and materials to restore the original style as closely as possible, while it sounds like a methodical process, each step presents a challenge. As the number of skilled artisans in ancient architecture dwindles and old timber is eroded over time, you’ll realize that this is not just a residence, but a treasure of human architectural culture.

Only by visiting Lanting Anlu can one truly understand the meaning of ‘Without the inheritance of culture, how can a real legend begin.’ We checked into the hotel lobby, where the Yangming Pavilion rooms are the star accommodation, each a separate, old-style courtyard house, the essence of Anlu. Every corner is filled with the owner’s own collection, unable to bear the demolition of old houses due to dilapidation, they were collected and restored at great expense by many master craftsmen and traditional builders, reviving the old houses’ charm.

Buildings without cultural heritage are ultimately soulless. The ancient houses before us, what stories have unfolded here in the past, and what will be enacted here in the future. The Yangming Pavilion rooms do not differ much in layout from other types, the difference lies in the view from the window. The Yangming Pavilion faces a bamboo forest and mountain scenery, while the other pavilions are built by the water, overlooking the undulating mountains across the river.

If you’ve stayed at the Summer Palace Aman, you may feel a sense of familiarity here, as it’s also the work of Aman’s preferred designer, Jaya. The room layout is very regular, with the living room in the center, dividing the bedroom area and the bathroom area on either side. The three spaces are almost equally divided, giving you an idea of the size of the entire space. With two doors open, you can see the beautiful scenery of the mountains.

The high ceiling design of the guest rooms makes the rooms spacious and bright, even old houses will not appear dark and oppressive. Lying in bed at night, looking at the high beams, you really feel like you’re about to travel back hundreds of years, as if you’ve become a lady in the General’s Mansion. Although in the mountains, the rooms are equipped with air conditioning and floor heating, so you don’t have to worry about Casper running around the house barefoot and catching a cold.

The guest room is also equipped with parent-child toiletries. There is also a vintage little red umbrella, which is extremely suitable for the atmosphere here. However, Casper doesn’t know how to play with it yet and turns an umbrella into a hat. Anlu at Lanting is definitely a great place to get away from the hustle and bustle. The exclusive green mountains and clear waters of the hotel avoid the swarming crowds and create a unique and tranquil place. Along the Ruoye Creek, strolling with Casper, the sounds of birds and flowing water are pleasing to the ear.

The Ruoye Concert Hall is adjacent to the Ruoye Creek and is also relocated from a traditional Huizhou ancient architectural complex and can be used for various conferences.Surrounding the concert hall is a cherry blossom forest. Now it is cherry blossom season, and it is extremely suitable to bring kids here. The Huizhou architecture with grey tiles and white walls is as beautiful as a painting against the backdrop of cherry blossoms in full bloom.

Walking along the path is Lanting’s spa and activity center. The deep blue swimming pool reflects the white walls and black tiles. If you come here in summer, it must be a great place for playing in the water.

Coming out of the swimming pool and passing a waterside pavilion, there are stone steps one after another. I was wondering why they are placed like this. The staff introduced that many activities are often held here, such as wine tastings or doing yoga here in the early morning to absorb the spiritual energy of the mountains and waters. No wonder Anlu does not provide indoor fitness facilities and the like. Since choosing to retreat, it is natural to integrate with heaven and earth.

Continuing upward along the stream, you can see a whole lake view, which makes people feel relaxed and happy. Casper also found groups of small fish in the lake and was very happy watching them swim around. The reflections of the Huizhou old houses one after another form a natural painting.

Lanting Anlu is actually located in a valley and surrounded by mountains. One of the mountains is a branch of the famous Kuaiji Mountain in Shaoxing, and there are also charming cultural treasures here. If you like climbing mountains, you can follow the stone steps. There is an exclusive passage for Lanting guests to see the Tenth Cave Heaven of Taoism – Longrui Palace. If you still have energy, you might as well continue to climb up and reach the viewing pavilion on the mountainside. From the pavilion, you can overlook the entire Lanting Anlu. With Casper, I naturally gave up this thought. When he is older, perhaps he can help me climb the mountain…

Kids should belong to nature. In this landscape, they release their own innocence. The hotel is really large. After a stroll around, it was getting late. We chose to have a meal in the all-day dining room in the hotel. The dining room is very close to our room. We can solve three meals a day here.

Shaoxing is located in the south of the Yangtze River. The special dishes are also in line with the tastes of people from Shanghai. However, when you come here, you still have to taste the seasonal dishes. Cured products such as bacon are also specialties here. I especially like the chef’s plate arrangement. Every dish is made into a work of art. Just looking at it makes people’s fingers twitch. To test whether the ingredients are fresh, whether the food is delicious and whether it is pleasing to the eye and the palate, I think a child’s taste buds are the most honest. Casper can’t wait to climb onto the table. He takes spoonful after spoonful of the silver-threaded seafood soup and takes one bite after another of the rich and smooth foie gras. And the combination of crab roe and oranges is also his favorite. Since we are in Shaoxing, we still have to taste the most characteristic sauce-flavored combined steaming here. Various delicious cured meats are combined together. This is the taste that only appears during the Spring Festival. Handmade pan-fried buns are also a specialty dish here. I heard that the master who makes pan-fried buns has also won a Shaoxing dim sum award. Different from Shanghai’s pan-fried buns, his buns have a crispy and soft skin and are fragrant and crispy.

After dinner, we gave Casper a bath, and to our surprise, he was in bed by 8 p.m., sound asleep. Increasing his physical activity has indeed been an effective way to regulate his sleep schedule, providing us with more personal time and a much-needed respite. With the evening free, we embarked on our parent-child entertainment time.

Waking up in the morning, we opened the door to a view of lush green mountains and clear waters, under a bright blue sky with white clouds. We had scheduled breakfast to be delivered to our room at 8:30 a.m., and it arrived punctually. The breakfast was a mix of Chinese and Western cuisines, with a variety of dishes that changed daily. Casper gobbled down a bowl of steaming hot noodles, marking the start of a new day for us.

Today, we planned to take Casper to a strawberry field to pick strawberries. The journey from Anlu to the strawberry field took about 10 minutes by car. I had always been puzzled by the appeal of strawberry picking—why go through the effort when you can buy affordable and delicious strawberries? However, upon arrival, I realized that this is the joy of life, especially for a child.

This was Casper’s first time picking strawberries. He was excited, carrying a small basketHe picked more strawberries, gaining experience as he carefully examined which ones were redder and tastier. When a strawberry was out of reach, he would softly call for his mother, and I would rush over to help. The strawberries that made it into his basket were his, with a clear sense of ownership.

After picking, the strawberries were weighed and priced at 35 yuan per kilogram, which wasn’t cheap. However, we were buying the experience, and considering the many strawberries my son might have crushed, it felt like a fair deal. Look at our bountiful harvest!

The days spent at Anlu felt exceptionally carefree, perhaps because of the lake, the scenery, or the historical buildings that seemed to freeze time and calm restless hearts. Back at the restaurant, one must enjoy an afternoon tea when the weather is suitable. The spacious terrace offers a panoramic view of lush greenery, with white walls and black tiles blending in, providing a leisurely enjoyment of the sweet afternoon tea. During the cherry blossom season, a cherry blossom afternoon tea is a must, exclusive to this season, with pink and tender desserts that are irresistible to every bite. The desserts come in both sweet and savory varieties, small and exquisite, catering to different tastes. One serving is more than enough for a family of three, and we even packed some to enjoy as snacks on our way back.

During our days in Anlu, we found a pure land and a place for tranquility, which became our greatest gain. We look forward to revisiting when the cicadas sing in midsummer. (Photos and text by Busy Little Meatball)