Exploring the Ancient Charm of Qingxi Old Street

**Duration: 1 day**
**Time: November**

Solo travel in a cultural style.

**Qingxi Ancient Town (Qingxi Old Street)**

*Location:* Qingcun Town, Fengxian District, Shanghai

*History:* Qingxi Ancient Town, formed in the late Sui and early Tang dynasties, became a village in the early Song dynasty. It was named after the reeds along the stream that runs through the village and leads to the sea. After the Qing Yongzheng period, it was renamed Qingcun Port and during the Republic of China period, it was known as Qingcun. The town boasts a history of over 1,400 years.

*Restoration:* The historic Qingxi Old Street has been restored and protected, merging modern trends with ancient charm. The restored street is 1330 meters long, built along the river, and features the traditional layout and style of a Jiangnan water town. Water is integral to the town’s spirit and vitality, with small bridges and flowing water reflecting the buildings with black tiles and white walls, creating a delicate scene.

*Preservation:* The typical rural architecture of Shanghai’s southern suburbs is preserved on both sides of the market river, which was listed as a Shanghai historical and cultural preservation area in 2004. Numerous historical buildings have been repaired and restored to their original style, materials, and craftsmanship.

*Exploration:* Entering the old street from Miaochang Alley, which runs north-south for about 150 meters and is 6 meters wide, we find the Sanzhu Temple Bridge, built during the Yongle period of the Ming dynasty over 600 years ago. This ancient stone bridge is a major transportation route for Qingcun Town and is also known as the Sanguandang Bridge. The bridge was repaired with a stone from Baisha Temple, leaving the words ‘Qifeng Bridge’ on the west side.

*Bridges:* Standing on the Sanzhu Bridge, one can admire the stilted buildings and their reflections in the water. Further along, another ancient bridge can be seen, though its name was not noted. Turning west at the south end of Sanzhu Bridge leads to the Guangji Bridge, a stone slab bridge that was once the most splendid in Qingcun Port. First built in the Ming dynasty and rebuilt in 1831 during the Qing Daoguang period, the streets around it were the most prosperous. The bridge, with a length of 10.8 meters and a width of 1.55 meters, has historical and cultural value.

*Significance:* Not far from Guangji Bridge is the Nanhong Bridge, built in 1692 and with a history of over 300 years. It is made of arched granite and bluestone, with 30 steps from south to north. Originally a stone step wooden beam bridge, it was later rebuilt during the Yongzheng period as a single-hole arch stone bridge. It is one of the few Ming and Qing bridges preserved in Fengxian and was announced as a district-level cultural relics protection unit in 2004.

*Bridge Art:* The bridge center stone of Nan Hongqiao is a masterpiece, resembling a celestial dragon and blossoming auspicious clouds, with the Taiji two instruments in the middle, symbolizing the orderly circulation of all things and the safety of the region. This bridge, also known as Huanlong Bridge, is a single-arch bluestone-based arch bridge. From Nan Hongqiao, one can see the beautiful silhouette of Yongshou Bridge, built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, spanning Wolong’an Port from east to west. Together with Nan Hongqiao, they form a typical ‘double-bridge’ landscape in Jiangnan market towns, unique for their intersecting design and different styles. Standing on these bridges, one can observe a clear stream meandering slowly by.On both sides of the river are two-story small buildings with white walls and black tiles. Every household is by the river. Willows are drooping by the riverbank, and vegetable gardens surround it. There are no red lanterns or shops and teahouses. It is an original residential area. Only wisps of cooking smoke can be seen, presenting a peaceful and leisurely scene of daily life. Standing on Nan Hongqiao and looking at the waterside buildings at both ends, the tranquility of the ancient town and water town seeps into the heart.

Passing through the double bridges, there is actually an exquisite garden on the south side of the small river. Originally, this is the South Garden, one of the eight scenic spots of Qingxi. The South Garden was originally named ‘Yunsuo Garden’. It was originally built in the Zhishun period of the Yuan Dynasty (1330). It was the private residence of Tao Yuquan, one of the eight richest people in Songjiang in the Yuan Dynasty. In the middle of the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, it was destroyed by Japanese pirates. According to historical records, the restored and rebuilt South Garden has jagged rocks, small bridges over flowing water, winding corridors with carved railings, pavilions and terraces, full of antique charm. Now it is operated by ‘One Chi Garden’ for coffee and light meals. There is a viewing platform on the side of the South Garden. Opposite is the cruise ship terminal. Looking at a row of old houses retaining antique charm and the reflection of Nan Hongqiao and the stream water forms a symmetrical beauty. At this moment, one’s thoughts are extraordinarily calm.

Walking out of the South Garden, this is the landscape area of Wangjiaqiao Road. It is located south of Nan Hongqiao and runs parallel to Wolong’an in Qingcun. The road is about 2 meters wide. The weeping willows on the bank form a pleasant shade, and the scenery is unique. The Yan Sheng Tang time-honored traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy on the street has an old Chinese medicine doctor statue waiting to take the pulse of tourists. There is also a scene of children going to the rice shop to buy rice. Three successful candidates in one family. Qingcun Town is a place of outstanding people and abundant talents. Many scholars and literati have emerged. In history, there have been many famous scholars and literati, including eight successful candidates such as Zhang Bi and Huang Zhijun, and dozens of juren such as Yuan Kai. The Zhang Bi father and son had three successful candidates in one family, becoming a beautiful story in the cultural history of Fengxian.

The Zhang Bi Memorial Archway is located on West Street of Qingcun. Originally named ‘Haixiu Memorial Archway’, the Jiajing Emperor of the Ming Dynasty specially erected the ‘Haixiu’ memorial archway to recognize the contributions of Zhang Bi and his son in Qingxi Town. It is a three-cross and four-column memorial archway. Most of it was destroyed on the eve of liberation. Now only one cross and two columns remain. The eastern pillar stands at 3 meters tall, while the western pillar reaches 4.7 meters, with the beam adorned with intricate floral and plant reliefs. In 2007, it was listed as immovable cultural heritage in Fengxian District (registered). The Haixiu Pavilion, left behind by the Zhang family, is also a significant historical site on Qingxi Old Street. Although only the eastern gate remains, the exquisite ‘Sea Beast and Wave Pattern’ can still be seen on the ruins. The Haixiu Pavilion has been included in the list of immovable cultural heritage in Fengxian, narrating the glorious past of the Zhang family and Qingxi Old Street for centuries. Zhang Bei (styled Donghai), a Jinshi (successful candidate in the highest imperial examination) in the second year of the Chenghua era (1466), served as a director in the Ministry of War, an external official in the Ministry of War, and the prefect of Nan’an (present-day Dayu, Jiangxi). He was skilled in poetry and calligraphy, and his original inscriptions are preserved. The ‘Donghai Pavilion’ in the ancient Hua Garden of Nanqiao was built in his memory. Today, one can still see the former residence of Zhang Bei and his son and their inscriptions in Qingcun Ancient Town.

Arriving at the famous building on the old street, the Wanghai Tower. Located in the middle of Qingxi Old Street, it is a three-bay, three-story building and was the tallest structure in the Qingcun area before the liberation, thus well-known far and wide. The tower was built around the early Republic of China by the Wu family from Boboanli. The Wu family, a prominent clan in Qingcun at the time, purchased American yellow pine and other building materialsAfter 1949, it has always served as a tea garden, a book venue, and also as an inn. During the renovation process of the old street, this building has also been restored. The villagers living here have placed flowers and plants at the entrances of their homes, creating a beautiful landscape.

The interior has become a public exhibition space, currently hosting an exhibition of Lu Wei Zhong’s calligraphy.

The old street has relatively well-preserved ancient buildings. The Yang Gaojing and Yang Kun Gaozhai located at No. 18 in the middle of Qingcun Old Street, built by the Qing juren Yang Kun, is a two-story building complex with southern residential characteristics and Hui-style architecture. The Gaozhai covers an area of about 500 square meters and still retains an original eave gate, which is rare to see throughout the entire Qingcun Town. After restoration, the Yang Gaojing residence still retains the original eave gate, ‘Guanyin Doudou’, horse head wall, and sculptures of bats, peonies, and cedars, outlining the characteristics of Qingcun’s ancient architecture and is now a registered unit for cultural heritage protection in Fengxian District. The horse head wall, also known as the fire-blocking wall, can play a role in isolating the fire in case of a fire. The horse head wall and Guanyin Doudou symbolize ‘receiving blessings and welcoming auspiciousness’, showing the historical style of the ancient town.

Along the way, ancient bridges dazzled my eyes. The Jifang Bridge, built in the sixth year of the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty (1578), has a history of more than 400 years. It is a three-span arch bridge, with a body made of granite, a flat bridge surface, stone railing columns, and clear stone carving patterns and bridge names. This bridge features a tight connection and a sturdy structure, recognized as the foremost among the three-arch stone bridges in the suburbs of Shanghai, holding the same value as the Wu Kong stone arch bridge in Zhujiajiao. The Jifang Bridge, also known as the Sugar Bridge, is said to have been built by a candy vendor who kept his word and thus is colloquially referred to as the ‘Sugar Bridge’. Originally located on Qingcheng East Street, the bridge was buried in soil when the Jinhui Port was excavated in 1978. In 2005, this ancient bridge with a history of over 400 years was unearthed and relocated to the west of Qingcun Town on the Town West River, regaining its former glory.

When visiting Qingxi Old Street, one can also take a boat ride on the Qingxi River to appreciate the scenery along the riverbanks. The clear green water ripples, and the views on both sides are picturesque, with the small boats themselves becoming part of the scenery. There are many stilted buildings along the banks of the Qingxi River, which is a significant characteristic of the water towns in the Jiangnan region. These buildings, a crystallization of ancient people’s wisdom, stand along the river with their front half on the riverbank and the rear half suspended over the water, supported by several stone pillars. The ‘feet’ of the stilted buildings are deeply embedded in the river. The residences built by the residents along the river have two-thirds of their structures suspended over the lake surface, supported by pillars. Looking at the rows of old houses that retain their ancient charm and their reflections in the water create a symmetrical beauty that brings a sense of tranquility.

Hui-style architecture is visible everywhere in the ancient town, with hard mountain tops and small blue tile roofs, and the east and west side walls featuring large Guanyin pockets and towering horse-head walls. Near Guangji Bridge, the old street is flanked by buildings adorned with a series of red lanterns, a symbol of traditional Chinese culture.

The street surface of Qingxi Old Street is paved with bluestone slabs, and there are many winding alleys along the street. The pavilions, stages, and ancient docks on the old street exude an air of historical vicissitudes, making one feel as if they are traversing history while walking along the streets and by the river.

The old street even has a ‘Manchu Lane’, which is over 200 meters long and 2 meters wide. During the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, when the Taiping Army occupied the area, the Qing court sent Manchu cavalry to Qingcun Port Town to suppress the Taiping Army, and they were stationed in this lane. The locals referred to this lane as ‘Manchu Lane’, which was renamed ‘Liberation Lane’ after liberation, but the old residents of Qingcun still commonly call it ‘Manchu Lane’.

The ‘Guanyin pockets’ and horseWearing a green bamboo hat and a green straw raincoat, one feels no need to return in the slanting wind and drizzle. This line from the poem perfectly captures the essence of Qingxi Old Street, where the scenery of Jiangnan and a leisurely lifestyle are on full display. Strolling along Qingxi Old Street, one is filled with contentment and forgets to return. The water bridge, or the river embankment, is a multifunctional feature of Qingxi Old Street, serving basic functions such as boat passage, water collection, and washing. Unlike other old streets, Qingxi’s water dock boasts additional functions, which are tied to the terrain, geomorphology, and commercial transactions of the old street. The water bridges here are predominantly of the embankment type and cantilever type, with variations including single-sided, saddle-shaped, double bucket outward-facing, inward-facing, and straight water dock water bridges, all typically constructed from granite. The three-sided water bridge found here is a rare sight in Jiangnan.

Qingxi Ancient Town is a paradise-like small town, an authentic village within an international metropolis, and a beautiful town that has yet to be engulfed by urbanization. Qingxi Old Street, with its enduring charm, remains the heart and soul of Qingcun Town, rich in cultural relics and historical buildings that bear witness to its history and culture. The ancient residence of Zhang Bingguan, located at 56-64 East Street of Qingxi Old Street, is a testament to this heritage. The residence faces south with a layout consisting of one main hall and two side rooms, each with five bays, wing rooms on both sides, and a central courtyard. The building features a small blue tile roof, hanging ridges on each side, a hard mountain top, and Guanyin pouches on the gable walls. The intricate wood carvings cover an area of over 500 square meters. On May 15, 2017, it was designated as a ‘Fengxian District Cultural Relics Protection Site’.

The Zhonghe Bridge, situated in the east market of Qingcun Port Town and facing north-south, was constructed in the 14th year of the Qianlong Emperor’s reign (1749). Measuring 17.5 meters in length, 2.77 meters in width, 3.9 meters in height, and with a span of 6.25 meters, it is a single-span flat bridge made of granite. The bridge features a pier-style stone base without bridge pillars, and one side has four flat granite beams. Originally, wooden railings were installed on both sides, which were replaced with iron railings in the 1950s. In 2007, it was listed as a ‘Fengxian District Immovable Cultural Relics Protection Unit’. From the high arch of the Zhonghe Bridge, one can enjoy the ink painting-like scenery of the Jiangnan water towns on both sides of the market river, including the corridor on the right side.

At the end of the old street near the Zhonghe Bridge, there is a Qingxi book bar, offering leisure tables and chairs outside for tourists to rest. Opposite the book bar, four statues of Qingxi celebrities stand on both sides. In ancient times, Qingxi placed a strong emphasis on culture and education, producing many literati and celebrities, the most famous of whom is the Ming Dynasty calligrapher Zhang Bi, known as the ‘Grass Sage’. He was not only a master of calligraphy but also a clear and effective administrator, and his son was deeply influenced by him, working diligently for the people. The Jiajing Emperor, recognizing the contributions of the Zhang family, specially ordered the construction of the Haixiu Pavilion in their hometown, praising the Zhang family as ‘the beauty of the East China Sea’.

This is another entrance and exit of Qingxi Old Street. Across the quiet small road from the old street is the town book bar and the homesickness garden. There is a bridge on the right side of the garden, from where one can look at the old street and return from the ‘Nursery Corridor’. The waterside buildings form a beautiful long scroll of the Jiangnan water town. The once dilapidated streets have been refurbished, with various cultural and creative shops, homestays, and snack shops moving in. Preserving the typical rural architectural complex characteristics of the southern suburbs of Shanghai, the historical style protection area of Shanghai has regained new vitality and energy.

The trip was short, and there were several district-level cultural relics protection buildings and many internet celebrity check-in spots that I didn’t have time to visit. I’ll leave them for the next visit.

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