In early winter, Suzhou’s streets and alleys, both large and small, are bathed in the warm sun as falling leaves dance on ancient cobblestones. A ray of light filters through the branches, casting a golden scene. The scenery is as picturesque as a poem, offering a sense of tranquility and warmth. These early winter evenings are perfect for a leisurely stroll. Suzhou’s early winter is a gentle beauty, with the river dotted with the shadows of fallen leaves and streets filled with leisurely pedestrians. It is a nostalgic sentiment, where ancient architecture has witnessed the changes of history and preserved Suzhou’s culture.
Passing through the bustling Shantang Street at night leads to the North Dock, and beside it lies Changmen, one of the eight gates of Suzhou’s ancient city and the west gate of the old city. Wu’s army conquered Chu from this gate, hence it is also known as the ‘Gate of Breaking Chu’. Today, Changmen spans the road with traffic coming and going. Through Changmen, those ancient alleys are places that tourists have not reached, but they are also part of daily life. ‘Food from all directions is nothing more than a bowl of worldly flavors.’ In the alleys of Suzhou, time-honored shops that have stood for decades or even a century are still standing firm, guarding their traditions and passing on the old flavors of Suzhou. Entering these old shops is like stepping into a time tunnel; everything is as real and familiar as in the past.
People use the term ‘a mixture of five flavors’ to describe life because they understand that taste is the nostalgia that everyone holds in their hearts. Those old shops, like old friends, accompany us as we grow. Time warms this city, and those old flavors that have not changed for decades bring comfort and solace.
Changmen Yao’s Soy Milk, established in 1979, is an old shop where time seems to stand still. This 24-hour soy milk shop is rooted under the Changmen city gate for over forty years. The shop is simple and ordinary, just like the mild and generous soy milk. Even when arriving late at night, there are still many regular customers in the shop. The lively scene, laughter, and cheerful voices of the customers create a unique atmosphere. A small shop with a variety of options, sweet soy milk, salty soy milk, glutinous rice cake, tofu pudding, fried dough sticks, sesame balls, soup dumplings, fried dumplings, shredded radish cake, live pearls, tea eggs… and many more varieties are ordered with friends. Yao’s soy milk is made in a traditional process, with thick juice and rich flavor, nutritious. The original soy milk costs only 3 yuan a bowl, and the signature salty soy milk is 6 yuan a bowl. Each time-honored shop has its unique story and characteristics. Despite the passage of time, these old shops still stick to their place, passing on the old flavors of Suzhou, and feeling the warmth of the quiet years.
The fried glutinous rice cake is golden and crispy, and the tofu pudding with seaweed and shrimp skin… Take a bite, full of the taste in memory. As if returning to childhood, the little girl with two braids. Changmen Yao’s Soy Milk, like many traditional time-honored shops, is family-run and passed down from generation to generation. The old man’s son inherits the family’s secret recipe and skills, maintaining the stability and quality of the products. Not only is the operation seen as a profession, but it is also seen as a responsibility and mission to pass on the traditional old flavors to more people. Store name: Changmen Yao’s Soy Milk (Head Store) Address: No. 60 Gusu District, Suzhou City (next to the old Changmen city gate).
Old Qingtai Hotel, since 1898, is a place where I last visited the ancient town of Mudu in Suzhou. Walking and strolling, drinking a cup of tea, eating a traditional handmade date paste cake. Ginkgo and maple leaves, yellow and red, the most comfortable season in the south of the Yangtze River. The history of Mudu ancient town is very long, built in the Northern Song Dynasty, it is one of the earliest ancient towns in Suzhou and has attracted many literati to stay. Hand-drawn boats come and go, there are not many tourists, very comfortable. This is a place that Qianlong had to visit six times when he went to the south of the Yangtze River, and he once lived in the Hongyin Mountain House. Mudu ancient town is also one of the hot spots for those who have a complex about ancient towns, and it is also a place that does not charge tickets. If you want to visit the gardens, you can buy a joint ticket for 78 yuan, which includes three attractions: Yanjia Garden, Hongyin Mountain House, and Gusong Garden.The ancient town of Mudu, with a history spanning over 2500 years, is a place where the night offers a different charm compared to the daytime. Known as the ‘First Town in Wu’ and ‘Outstanding in the South of the Yangtze River’, Mudu is more than just a commercial spot; it is a home to locals who have preserved its authenticity. Walking along the stone slab roads, one encounters various small shops that exude the warmth and flavor of daily life. The town’s history rivals that of the ancient city of Suzhou, and its main street, Shantang Street, is lined with classical gardens that embody the ‘Garden Ancient Town’ characteristic.
When visiting the south of the Yangtze River, one must not only explore gardens, taste tea, and listen to opera but also indulge in the culinary delights of Mudu’s old book town, particularly the book lamb. A few kilometers from Mudu, lies an old Qingtai, a must-visit for locals. The book lamb is a specialty of Suzhou, and Old Qingtai Lamb Restaurant has been dedicated to this dish for over 120 years since its founding in 1898 during the Qing Guangxu period. Stepping into Old Qingtai and savoring a pot of mutton soup is a heartwarming experience, with the fresh and signature flavors of the book lamb pot delighting the taste buds. The restaurant is frequented not only by tourists but also by locals who appreciate the non-muttony taste of the mutton soup, the tender braised mutton, and the well-seasoned grilled mutton skewers.
For those seeking traditional craftsmanship and unique cooking skills, Old Qingtai Lamb Restaurant is highly recommended. Look for the establishment with a lot of cars parked outside—it’s a sure sign you’ve found the right place. Store name: Old Qingtai Hotel · Book Lamb (Mudu Branch), Address: No. 85 Qionglong Road, Wuzhong District, Suzhou City.
Another gem in Suzhou’s culinary scene is Xiaotangjia Book Lamb Restaurant, which has been serving its signature dish for over thirty years. From a small roadside stall to a recognizable sign, Xiaotangjia has maintained its quality and taste. A visit to Xiaotangjia late at night is met with an overwhelming sense of warmth and hospitality, with the first floor hall often filled to capacity. The mutton soup, priced at 35 yuan, comes with four side dishes and is an excellent value. The mutton cake, sold at 90 yuan per jin with a 30 yuan sample, is a visible testament to quality. Various other mutton delicacies, such as lamb scorpions, sheep’s hooves, and sheep’s liver, can be chosen according to personal preference.
Before dipping vegetables, a bowl of mutton soup is a must, leaving one feeling cozy all over. The cabbage and bean curd in the soup absorb the flavors, making for a fresh and satisfying taste. The braised lamb ribs, at 60 yuan a casserole, are soft, delicious, and easy to eat with the bones removed. The mutton skewers are freshly prepared and grilled to perfection, with a crispy exterior and tender interior, making them a favorite among diners. On a chilly early winter night, there’s nothing quite like enjoying meat and soup with a hearty appetite.
Xiaotangjia Book Lamb Restaurant (Changshun Binjiang Crown Store) is located at No. 27 Hongqiao Road, Kunshan City, Suzhou City. These time-honored establishments have become an integral part of Suzhou, carrying its history and cultural memory while offering a strong sense of regional culture and culinary pleasure. They provide not only a meal but also an emotional connection to the city’s past and present.
For those interested in exploring more of Suzhou’s late-night dining options, these time-honored shops are a great starting point for a culinary adventure.
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