On my third trip to Hunan for tourism, I unexpectedly visited Jishou City, a place I had never heard of before. Upon arrival, I discovered that amidst the rolling mountains, numerous Miao ethnic villages are hidden, which are simple and tranquil, offering a sense of comfort from body to soul, truly a paradise on earth. If given the chance, a deep travel experience is highly recommended in Jishou. There is a scenic rural road in Jishou, with colorful dividers and even colored guardrails. Along this road, one can appreciate the beauty of Jishou’s countryside.
1. Zhonghuang Village
Located approximately a 30-minute drive from the city center of Jishou City in Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province, there is an ancient Miao village named Zhonghuang Village. Originally named ‘Chongwu’, which means ‘a place of auspiciousness’ in the Miao language, it resonates with the meaning of the ‘auspicious capital’ conveyed by the city of Jishou.
Zhonghuang Village was established during the Qing Dynasty as a large Yang family village of ‘five ridges and seven villages with eight hundred households’. Due to wars and chaos, the village was destroyed. Survivors, with tears and blood, reconstructed their homes, and through generations of growth and development, it has become what it is today.
Surrounded by continuous mountains and meandering rivers, the chaos of the past has become a historical web of pearls, and the simple village exudes tranquility and harmony. More than 50 ancient villages are still preserved here, often attracting tourists who are eager to explore the mysteries of this centuries-old ancient village.
The hospitality begins at the village gate with a welcoming drink, followed by performances of the Big Head Buddha dance and the playing of trumpets by the villagers. This warm reception is very refreshing for us, who are used to living in concrete jungles.
Women in the village gather together, some embroidering with needles, some spinning with spinning wheels, and some operating looms… Zhonghuang Village still retains the ancient tradition of Miao embroidery. With unique techniques such as double needle lock embroidery, wrinkle embroidery, braid embroidery, broken yarn embroidery, silk floss applique, and tin embroidery, they create auspicious and happy lives.
The women’s daily embroidery work is well-liked by tourists, who often purchase some of their embroidery to take back home.
Visiting Zhonghuang Village offers many opportunities to experience the ancient traditions of the village, including the famous monkey drum, which is said to be a major feature of the village.
2. Yanke Village
About a 10-minute drive from Zhonghuang Village lies Yanke Village, a village built at the foot of a mountain, as its name suggests, with many rocks. What is more eye-catching here is a sea of flowers, yellow and red… A large expanse that can be smelled from afar for its fragrance.
Indeed, it is a lily garden.
There is a clear river where ducks play happily, and some people fish in the river. On one side of the river are fields, and on the other side, a sea of flowers. The sea of flowers stretches for several kilometers, enriching the colors of Jishou’s summer.
The rocks of Yanke Village are blooming with flowers.
It is said that there are more than 300 varieties of lilies here. When tourists come, they can enter the lily sea to appreciate the colorful lilies up close, intoxicated by their charming fragrance. The ticket price is not expensive, priced reasonably at around 20 yuan.
If you wish to buy some flowers to take back, that’s also possible.
3. Pingnian Village
Upon arriving at Pingnian Village, I heard that there was originally no road here. Pingnian Village was truly a ‘poor’ village. Since the construction of the most beautiful rural tourism route, the number of tourists coming to the village has increased, which has also brought income to the villagers.
Pingnian Village is home to a small stream, littered with pebbles, where the cheerful stream always sings a pleasant tune. In fact, on the way to the village, it is common to see villagers with children catching fish in the stream, making one itch to take off their shoes and play barefoot in the shallow waters. This is the home of Yang Yuebin, a national general who resisted the French and reclaimed Taiwan at the end of the Qing Dynasty, and Long Yingtang, the first generation of Miao drum kings in China at the beginning of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. Yang Yuebin may not be familiar to many, but he was the commander of the late Qing Xiang Army’s naval forces, who reclaimed Taiping Army and made significant contributions in aiding Taiwan. Although I didn’t have a chance to stroll around the village thoroughly, I enjoyed delicious pickles here. The sweet and“Hang” means mountain gully in the Miao language, and “Tuo” means forest. With shaded mountain gullies and tea trees covering the forest, it is named “Hangtuo”.
Arriving at Hangtuo Village is quite a test for drivers’ skills, as it is a village built on the top of a mountain, known as the ‘Cloud Top Hangtuo’. The mountain road is perfectly constructed, smooth and sleek, but with numerous twists and turns, including several near 360-degree bends that made us exclaim several times from the car. However, the driver was extremely calm, making me feel somewhat ashamed of my timidity.
Hangtuo Village is known for its tea production, with about 2000 acres of tea gardens scattered throughout the mountains. It is a village built among tea forests, divided into two natural villages: Upper Hangtuo with 80 households and more than 300 people, and Lower Hangtuo with 143 households and more than 500 people.
Wandering around the village, one can see piles of wood neatly arranged in front of every household. It is said that the villagers here have a habit of collecting firewood, which is indeed an interesting hobby. Many tourists find it amusing and often take selfies leaning against these stacks of wood.
Besides its cleanliness, Hangtuo Village is also adorned with various flowers. There is even a farmhouse with a strong artistic atmosphere in the village. Dining and drinking tea in such an environment has a unique charm. The vintage stilt houses with their orderly eaves, villagers resting on the steps, the tranquil scene makes one feel that this is what a rural area should truly look like. It gives a sense of peace.
5. Hongping Village
Hongping Village is located in Jishou City’s Jilue Township, about 10 kilometers away from the urban area of Jishou City. Hongping Village, originally named “Rougong”, means “Red Rock” in the Miao language. It is named so because there is a red rock at the bottom of the small river pool in front of the village, resembling a sleeping water buffalo.
The village has a playground suitable for children, with inflatable castles, white sand, and a swaying bridge over the river… often enticing children to linger and not want to leave. Several tents have been built along the riverbank, often inviting friends to come and relax here. Swinging on the swings, enjoying the fresh breeze from the fields, listening to the singing of the stream. When it’s time for a meal, rent a firewood stove and light up the curling smoke. Experience a true pastoral life. This way of life is extremely attractive to city dwellers.
Although I have not been in contact with Jishou for long, I have a great interest in this most beautiful rural road. This highway serves as a vital link between tourists and villagers, a path to prosperity for the residents, and a route to happiness. It is also a road for visitors to unwind and experience a slice of paradise on earth.
Travel tips: Suitable for self-driving tours.
Tourist itinerary: Zhonghuang Village – Yanke Village – Pingnian Village – Hangtuo Village – Hongping Village.