Chongzuo, Guangxi: A Fairyland on Earth Described by Xu Xiake

A year ago, a bullet train departed from Chongzuo South Station. At that time, people on the train probably didn’t […]

A year ago, a bullet train departed from Chongzuo South Station. At that time, people on the train probably didn’t realize that this train marked that the travel time from Nanning to Chongzuo was shortened from the original 2 hours and 36 minutes to 52 minutes. Since then, Chongzuo has officially been incorporated into Nanning’s ‘one-hour living circle’, and the beautiful scenery of Chongzuo, like a paradise on earth, can no longer be hidden.

However, whenever Guangxi is mentioned, the first places that come to people’s minds are either Guilin and Yangshuo or Nanning. Very few people know about Chongzuo. I unexpectedly have a preference for this city. It not only has a long history but also has a superior geographical location. Most importantly, Chongzuo is beautiful and lively, gentle and magnificent. It has an elegance beyond the mortal world and a poetic and picturesque charm that is yearning for, making people infinitely intoxicated. As time passes and years change, this land is deeply engraved with the traces of years. I even think that Chongzuo is in no way inferior to Guilin and Yangshuo. Moreover, there are fewer people and one can enjoy a tranquility. One can slow down and enjoy the scenery well. Chongzuo is not large, but there are many beautiful and interesting places. For example, Detian Waterfall that I have introduced before. Another example is the Huashan Rock Paintings, a world cultural heritage. Today, I will take you to see a niche scenic spot in Chongzuo and also a fairyland described by Xu Xiake – Dongnayuwan.

At first hearing, does the name Dongnayuwan sound a bit拗口? In fact, there is another profound meaning behind it. ‘Dong’ refers to people living by mountains and waters. ‘Na’ refers to fertile fields. ‘Yu’ refers to scattered islands. ‘Wan’ refers to ferrying in river bends. Just these four characters can summarize the characteristics of Dongnayuwan. In a beautiful landscape, there are scattered islands. A group of comfortable people live here, guarding their own fertile fields. Taking a small boat and cruising among them, every scene seen is a fairyland. Pure and beautiful karst landscapes, chieftain, border, and Zhuang ethnic culture… Reading the name of Dongnayuwan again in this way, one immediately feels a poetic charm. A scenic area gathers almost all beautiful things. Dongnayuwan is located in Anping Village, Leiping Town, Daxin County, Chongzuo City, Guangxi. It is less than 20 kilometers from the highway exit, and the transportation is very convenient. This scenic area is upgraded and transformed on the basis of the original Anping Xianhe Scenic Area. When the river flows here, it is surrounded by an aura of immortality all the way and forms a painting by itself, thus earning the reputation of a fairy river. Because it is so beautiful, many TV dramas have been filmed here. For example, the extremely popular fairy-tale drama ‘The Journey of Flower’ has many scenes filmed in Anping Xianhe. In the drama, when Bai Zihua takes Hua Qiangu to travel down the mountain by bamboo raft, it is at Longbitan Waterfall in Anping Xianhe. There are also Peach Blossom Island, Penglai Fairy Island, and so on. The beautiful scenery on the screen is only a corner, but it is already breathtakingly beautiful. To truly experience Dongnayuwan, one needs to come here in person. The moment one steps into the riverbank, it is as if one has mistakenly entered a fairyland on earth and stepped into a dream of Xu Xiake. Surrounded by mountains, the water surface seems to be surrounded by a light mist. The ‘back garden of hereditary chieftains’ – Pohuang Island, Longbitan Waterfall, the water illusion, and the green trees and bamboos on the riverbank form beautiful long scrolls of landscapes one after another, making people unable to take their eyes off.

Touring Dongnayuwan, one can freely choose ways such as boating on the fairy river, cycling and roaming, or hiking in the wetland. I most recommend boating. Not only can one easily enjoy the beautiful scenery of green mountains and clear waters of Anping Xianhe, but the perspective of viewing the scenery from the river is also more unique. Amidst the gentle murmur of flowing water, the sounds of water and birds merge into one. Before you lies a scene of rippling waves, a beauty as poetic as a painting, making one reluctant to blink. Along the way, you will pass by the Eight Arch Bridge, the Water Forest, the Suspension Bridge, the Empress Holding the Crown Prince Mountain, Longbi Beach Waterfall, Tusi Wharf, Tusi Government Office, City God Temple,Boarding the boat at Tusi Wharf, you embark on a journey along the riverbank, unveiling the mystery of the Anping Xian River. Everywhere you look, you’ll find sights of ‘Gui Shui Zhuang Shan’. The classic ‘Dong Na Yu Bay’, with its eight scenes, reveals a different view at each step, as if you are traveling through time with Xu Xiake.

The cruise boat cuts through the jade-like water, creating clusters of waves. The ripples at the boat’s stern spread to both banks, shattering the reflections of the trees along the river, making it momentarily indistinguishable which is the real world.

This bridge is said to have appeared in ‘The Journey of Flower’; do you recognize it? The most wonderful part is when the boat reaches the watery illusion, where the gurgling water raises layers of mist, as if you are witnessing the travels of Xu Xiake in Anping hundreds of years ago. It is unclear how this scene was formed, but it is indeed very special, no wonder ‘The Journey of Flower’ chose this location for shooting.

Standing in the center of the mist, it feels as if you are in a fairyland. This beautiful scenery can be seen all day long, so do not miss it! Sometimes the river widens, with the distant mountains and grasslands appearing clear and blurred, complementing each other perfectly. Sometimes by the river, there are wooden houses and Zhuang ethnic girls playing musical instruments, the sound of the music travels very far.

Walking along the waterway, stopping and starting, after viewing the scenery, you will arrive at Guantian Wharf just in time to catch a Zhuang ethnic performance. As soon as the boat docks, you will be greeted by Tusi dressed in ethnic attire, leading ‘Lang Bao’ waiting to welcome guests from afar. They will warmly offer a bowl of welcome wine, perhaps with a slight intoxication, making everything seem even more beautiful? In any case, this bowl of wine must be consumed.

After disembarking, you can see the natural stone forest and heavenly bonsai, dreamlike and surreal. It is said that ‘there are no common stones in the stone forest, each one resembling divine craftsmanship.’ Looking at the stone forest before you, with its typical karst topography, competing peaks, and strange rocks, it is simply captivating.

The wonder of the stone forest lies in its ability to ignite your boundless imagination. As you closely observe these rugged rocks, you begin to involuntarily imagine stories within them. Of course, this place is also an excellent spot for photography. Walking up the steps, the scenery changes with each step. At the top, looking into the distance, the sky is as blue as if washed by water, with the surrounding plants showing shades of green, and the mountain breeze brings the scent of vegetation.

Another place I find absolutely beautiful is the Longbi Beach Waterfall. Longbi Beach is a waterfall group distributed in the shape of a ‘heart’, with rapid water flow resembling white silk, standing out in the lush river valley and making the river water appear especially clear and green. To appreciate the Longbi Beach Waterfall, the best viewpoint is from the staggered Xia Inn Trail.

Walking up the bluestone path, with the waterfall, ancient pavilions, and forests behind you… all make for great backdrops, and every snapshot is a masterpiece. From afar, the waterfalls look like white dragons passing through the stone forest and pouring into the clear water, with hanging springs and waterfalls, water droplets splashing freely, creating bursts of water sprays.

When a cruise ship passes through, it is as if one is swimming in a painting. Some people say that the landscapes of Guangxi are astonishing, and the landscapes of Dongnayu Bay are poetic and romantic. Not so magnificent, but with more popularity and human touch. How wonderful, Dongnayu Bay.

Tourism guide: Address – Anping Village, Leiping Town, Daxin County, Chongzuo City, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Ticket price – Boat ticket for Dongnayu Bay Anping Xianhe Scenic Area is 160 yuan; full set ticket for Dongnayu Bay is 258 yuan. Opening hours – 8:00 – 17:10.